PRINT: Rock Climb Major Creative Effort, Joshua Tree National Park

Major Creative Effort

5.10a, Trad, 130 ft (39 m),

Avg: 1.9 from 9 votes
FA: Greg Murphy and Dave Houghton, February 1987
California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > N Wonderland Ap… > Hidden Dome

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This is a fun and varied route on excellent rock. The first 20' is the crux - steep finger and hand jamming. The upper half is quite easy: 5.6 or 5.7

Location

This is an obvious crack system at the right end of the formation. Half way up, the crack passes along the left side of a large block. Near the top, angle right and face climb up.

Protection

standard rack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

susan peplow
Joshua Tree

5.10a

Description is accurate. Getting started and the 1st 20 or so is the crux. Opening moves require a step across then plug in some finger size gear. Hands/fingers are flaring, awkward or something but short lived. Eases with angle as you continue. Topping the bulge you can plug in an 1.5" cam under a roof, this is recommended and extend with runner. I almost skipped placing gear there but the idea of taking a digger down past the bulge and past the last piece of pro seemed avoidable. Expecting easy 5.6 no-gear knobs to the top I launched off. WOW was I glad I placed that piece below. Not one but two pieces of rock came off in my hand. Upper section is kinda poor quality and was not expected to break off. Climbed to the summit slightly left with thin crack providing a small stopper placement for protection. Hit the summit holding a piece of rock as "visual aid" for my belayer. Nov 14, 2013