Mountain Project Logo

DMZ Crack

5.11d, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2 from 4 votes
FA: Aaron Huey
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Valhalla > 1. Vietnam
Warning Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT DetailsDrop down

Description

I've never seen anyone on this, but it's worth a spin if you've already ticked the classic .11s at Vietnam. Starts with a bouldery sequence underclinging and laybacking around a small roof with minimal feet. Continue up strenuous sidepulls on the right-hand seam, with some edges and pockets here and there. Bust left to a juggy flake and the anchors.
The first bolt is spinning and not high enough off the deck to do much to protect the crux roof...stick-clipping the second is advisable!
The anchor consists of one open shut and a hanger without links or rings...could use some renovation.

Location

Immediately left of Bikini Girls.

Protection

5 bolts to single open shut and hanger.