5.11d,
Sport, 45 ft (14 m),
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
FA: Aaron Huey
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> Valhalla
> 1. Vietnam
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
I've never seen anyone on this, but it's worth a spin if you've already ticked the classic .11s at Vietnam. Starts with a bouldery sequence underclinging and laybacking around a small roof with minimal feet. Continue up strenuous sidepulls on the right-hand seam, with some edges and pockets here and there. Bust left to a juggy flake and the anchors. The first bolt is spinning and not high enough off the deck to do much to protect the crux roof...stick-clipping the second is advisable! The anchor consists of one open shut and a hanger without links or rings...could use some renovation.