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Dance to the Music
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.1 from 13
votes
Routes in Rabbit Rock -West
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A-Rester T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Coyote Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dance to the Music S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dressed to Kill S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Midlife Crisis T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rio S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Rhodes 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,196 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Sinner on Jun 6, 2011 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This route has a little bit of everything with good rock quality and sustained technical climbing. There were four distinct cruxes for me that all involved tricky slab footwork and delicate balance. The Classics guidebook calls this route 11b but I thought it may push into the 11+ realm (my partner and I found it more challenging than Spud Meets Hammerhead, 11c). Overall, a neat combination of face and slab climbing with well-spaced bolts.
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