PRINT: Rock Climb The World's Hardest Five Twelve, The New River Gorge Region

The World's Hardest Five Twelve

5.12a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3.4 from 57 votes
FA: Doug Reed 1991
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Kaymoor > 2. First Buttress

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Farthest left climb on the First Buttress. Start up a short steep section and break right at the upper roof. Pull a long move and keep it together until the chains.

Location

Leftmost route on the First Buttress.

Protection

8 bolts to bolted anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Francois Cote
Fredericton, NB

5.12b/c

I feel like people who feel this is 12a either are giants or have incredible finger strength. The move at the roof is either super hard or super reachy (there are intermediate holds but they suck). At 5'9" I managed to do a low percentage bump to my absolute max reach onto a good crimp and sent it that way but it felt way harder than any 12a I have done.
Or maybe I just suck and missed something.
Either way, this route is super fun. Oct 2, 2022

Chaz O

5.12b

Agree with Francois. It's 12a if you're as tall as Doug Reed. Maybe that's why it got the name? Harder than "sticky situation" for sure, but much better quality overall. Oct 31, 2022