Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,540 total · 15/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Jun 5, 2011 with improvements by Michael Reynolds
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

This excellent line starts off tough and never really lets up. Sustained and pumpy.

Starting at a thin face, balance your way up on crimpers and small sidepulls to more positive holds (stick clipping is a good idea). Continue up to a shallow roof; traverse left under the root to gain a left-facing flake. Continue up this flake until it peters out, then finesse through a short thin section (crux). Use nice incuts to fire through the steep face up to a slightly overhanging finish.

Location

Walk left from where the approach trail meets the Tea & Crumpets wall. Around the buttress, this route starts a little left of the left-facing corner. Look for suspect flakes below a shallow roof about 20 feet up.

Protection

5-6 bolts; open shut anchors.

Photos