Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Sean Cobourn
Page Views: 93 total · 1/month
Shared By: Matt Thomas on Jun 5, 2011
Admins: Courtney Curtner

You & This Route


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Description

Start in the obvious right facing inside corner that is located in the center of The Left Main Wall. Climb to the open book, then stem out the open book, continue to anchors.

"Todd McCormick and I were working State of the Artless, so named due to our creative pin scarring a la Jim Bridwell, Todd tried to lead it first, fell from the top of the book, ripped pro and landed in the pond. He suffered compression fractures in his back and as far as I know pretty much quit climbing soon thereafter. I went up later and lead it. The funny part is that the pin scars were not needed after all. A lesson best learned while young." --Sean Cobourn's comments on his first ascent of the Book in June of 1987.

Rich Rice is to be credited for inspiring many others to lead The Open Book in recent years. His 1994 free ascent of the Book was an inspiration to all of the Logtown locals. Rich used small stoppers and sliders to protect the book then a larger cam in the horizontal above, this was the first time that adequate protection had ever been used on the route. To date only a few other climbers have lead the Book on gear.

Protection

Anchors at top

Photos

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Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
actually called State of the Artless.
I did FA in late 80's I would guess. Todd McCormick almost had it but fell and suffered a compression fracture in his spine as a result. Sep 10, 2009
jhump
  5.10
jhump  
  5.10
Yes, sorry about that. I have your old guidebook somewhere. I could not remember the name and I do recall that everyone called it the "Open Book." I grew up around there. Logtown was home crag for several years. I will never forget my father working and finally climbing this route. Many a climber has learned to use their feet on this one. A fine route. I forgot the story of Todd's fall and injuries. Old Dave told me that one. Modern gear took the sting out of a trad lead of this one, but it was still a trip, smearing past the nest of small gear. Jan 3, 2010
BrianCarson
Redlands, CA
BrianCarson   Redlands, CA
I believe that Richard Rice had the FFA back in the 90s Mar 8, 2013