The Open Book
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Routes in Left Main Wall
|Anxiety S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Beam Me Up, Scotty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Frodo Lives S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Nichols is a Weenie S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R|
|Open Book Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Open Book, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Quest, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Scooby-Doo S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Shattered Image S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Slippery as an Eells S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tendinitus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Type:||Trad, 35 ft|
|Page Views:||60 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Thomas on Jun 5, 2011|
DescriptionStart in the obvious right facing inside corner that is located in the center of The Left Main Wall. Climb to the open book, then stem out the open book, continue to anchors.
"Todd McCormick and I were working State of the Artless, so named due to our creative pin scarring a la Jim Bridwell, Todd tried to lead it first, fell from the top of the book, ripped pro and landed in the pond. He suffered compression fractures in his back and as far as I know pretty much quit climbing soon thereafter. I went up later and lead it. The funny part is that the pin scars were not needed after all. A lesson best learned while young." --Sean Cobourn's comments on his first ascent of the Book in June of 1987.
Rich Rice is to be credited for inspiring many others to lead The Open Book in recent years. His 1994 free ascent of the Book was an inspiration to all of the Logtown locals. Rich used small stoppers and sliders to protect the book then a larger cam in the horizontal above, this was the first time that adequate protection had ever been used on the route. To date only a few other climbers have lead the Book on gear.
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