[Hide Comment] Great technical and pumpy climbing to a crux finale! Awesome route! Aug 9, 2015

[Hide Comment] This is a great route, but unfortunately the final jug to clip the anchors is a 3'x4' block that is essentially detached from the wall and also supporting larger refrigerator sized flakes above it. IF that block blows it would be a nightmare =/ May 31, 2020

[Hide Comment] Once Again, please feel free, especially if you are a local, to take care of any hazards you see at our crags. Basically, you either determine that there is an imminent hazard, and you take action to make sure that no-one gets hurt, or worse. If you dont, you are accepting that you knowingly left it for someone else to deal with. If you are incapable of dealing with a hazard, then get your friends to help, or ask for help from the community. On the other hand, there are many rock features that are hollow but still securely fixed to the wall in some geometric way. When in doubt, pry it out. If it wont budge with a crowbar, its not likely to budge with human fingers

Try not to JUST post a comment stating that there is a loose or hollow block somewhere, especially if you don't know whether it is actually loose. If you do post about something, let us know what you plan to do about it. Every pitch at Diablo has a hollow block on it, so its sort of like crying wolf, and nobody can tell where there is actually a problem

As a side note, that hollow block was there upon route establishment in 2011, it didn't budge then. But its always worth a checkup.

Be safe out there!!! Jun 24, 2020

[Hide Comment] Aaron, I don't think anyone is criticizing you (as the FA) or asking you in particular (as the most prolific Diablo bolter) to clean the routes. Every climber in NM appreciates and recognizes that your efforts in the area are far and away beyond those of any other individual person.

Let's face it, many (most?) climbs at Diablo have choss and blocks on them. IMO, this is the main shortcoming of climbing at Diablo (don't like it?-- go to White Rock..). A post here (or an "X" on a sketchy block) makes for a useful warning. Personally I've found that, most of the time, the "X" block warnings are overblown-- something wiggles or sounds hollow, but isn't about to go, and can be used and pulled on gently or easily avoided. I respect YOU and YOUR judgment to make the right decision to clean or leave those based on your ~20 years of climbing here (on climbs you bolted, and those put up by others)... but I'm less sure that I trust a standard rando climber with a crowbar and hammer. I would be happy to add those items to my kit and take initiative, but I just know sooner or later I'd be accused of "prying off holds that didn't need to be cleaned and had been that way for 10 years", especially if it makes a climb harder, and would question if I had done the right thing. When I pull a chunk off with my hands or a nut tool, I certainly feel no such guilt. I'm not sure on the best answer, but X's and posts do no damage.

Thanks again for all you do as a steward for the area. I know you've put more money, heart, and time into this place than anyone else, and it's not unnoticed. Look forward to climbing some of your new additions! George Jun 24, 2020

[Hide Comment] I’ve clipped those chains multiple times and I don’t recall the rock appearing unstable. But it is a scary spot for some reason. Maybe I’m just used to stacks of blocks at Diablo. Jul 8, 2020

[Hide Comment] AM, I Didn't claim it was loose..Just literally detached from the wall on all sides. It actually feels quite stable, considering how scary it looks. The advice here is to be light when using the feature (i.e. don't pull outward with much pressure). At the risk of sounding argumentative, I gotta say...did the thought occur to you that me posting on the community forum IS in effect me asking for help from the community? I can take your criticism about my lack of action...but at least I'm putting a "proceed with caution" out there. Stay safe. -Q


Edit: Just realized why AM opened with "once again"...apparently my comments on the route Cirith around the way weren't appreciated? I'll continue to post warnings on objectively sketchy scenarios; This is not a personal attack or criticism, no offense meant. I didn't look up the FA when I made the comment. Some MP users just utilize the comments to preview beta, route conditions/hazards, etc. Jul 8, 2020

[Hide Comment] This route is incredible. Apr 2, 2022