PRINT: Rock Climb Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish

5.7 PG13, Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 2.6 from 14 votes
FA: Unknown, but probably early 1960s.
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This is a distinctly "old school" Eldorado route and is sparsely protected at the crux. Climb up the ramp for approximately 35-40 meters and find a belay stance. Looking upwards and right, follow some enjoyable face climbing angling towards a break in a small roof band extending across the face. Surmounting this small roof is the crux of the climb, and protection BITD was poor (knife blade pitions!). Some smaller nuts can be placed but the direction of pull makes for "interesting" climbing; it's best to be solid at the grade and not fall here! Above the roof band, the angle relents and the standard route is soon intersected. Follow the regular route for ~ 20 meters to the top.

Location

This uses the same start as the standard Pseudo Sidetrack.

Scramble down the East Slabs, being very cautious in wet or icy conditions!

Protection

Standard Eldorado rack, nothing very large.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chris Grosshans coming around the corner on P3 of Sidetrack. Beautiful exposure!

E slabs descent from Upper Juniper Ledges.

Direct Finish.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT

5.7

I actually climbed this in 1965 "by mistake" with Larry Dalke, while trying to figure out where Whistle Stop went. We climbed the first Whistle Stop pitch, but Dalke then angled right and surmounted the little roof by mistake. He yelled back down that it was "only 5.7."
I later figured out that we had crossed over Pseudo Sidetrack; I subsequently led Pseudo Sidetrack using this variation several times in the mid 1960s. Not really recommended for a beginning 5.7 leader, since it's a "Dalke 5.7." It could be that Dalke and I cobbled together something of a "first ascent", but I'm not claiming one. Jun 2, 2011

mtoensing
AZ

5.4

I OSS this and have repeated it since. I don't find it harder than anything else on the route. Makes for a great finish. Apr 4, 2013