Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 140 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Jun 1, 2011
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

This is a two part climb. Part one (When Life Gives You Lemons...) heads up easy terrain left of the crack to a nice stance, then traverse right with a tricky sequence, to a BOMBER hand jam, take it to the top.

Part two (SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH!) heads up using the crack and big holds on the left but goes straight up the crack utilizing a wicked one knuckle pinky jam and a heinous pinch on the arete to the same BOMBER hand jam as part one.

Location

Back side of The Frigate, find Bowspirit and to your right is another buttress with a right angling crack.

Protection

Standard rack. Optional #1 Ball-Nuts for part one and a micro cam for the crux piece on both parts. Solo up the left side of the buttress to set TR.

Photos

Tradiban
  5.9+
Tradiban  
  5.9+
Not sure why but this obvious line isn't in Sven's book. Nov 3, 2011