Flakes of Wrath
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Cullen Kirk, Eric Frye & Zach Harrison, January 2009|
|Page Views:||1,847 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||Zach Harrison on Jun 1, 2011|
|Admins:||Tony Yeary, Daniel Seeliger|
This area uses private property, hopefully by respecting this, it will never become an issue.
DescriptionThis climb barges up the middle of Escudo, the proud wall at the head of the Anfiteatro. The rock is really good, the position is amazing and the summit views are sublime. The downside is this climb has one of the longest approaches in Cochamo.
P1 From the big ledge at the base of the face, climb a funky, wide crack that goes up left, 5.9, 100'.
P2 Head up the rad fist crack that widens to a chimney. At the top of the chimney, clip a bolt and face climb up right to a ledge, 5.11-, 150'.
P3 Face climb a small dihedrial past 2 bolts to a small ledge then up a angling flake into the long, nice right facing corner above passing more bolts to a ledge, 5.11+, 175'.
P4 Straight up crack to the big sloping ledge system that cuts across the face. Traverse right and down to a left facing corner, 5.10, 50' vert & 30' hor.
P5 Climb crack up around a roof then traverse left on face to the right edge of the lower roof then up to the left edge of the upper roof then straight up to a belay stance, 5.9, 100' vert & 50' hor.
P6 Look for a bolt 30' up and left, climb to it then go up the nice face above past 2 more bolts and an overlap to the amazing summit, 5.9, 150'.
There is a topo in the climbing book at the wonderful refugio that might be a little different but more accurate then this.