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Routes in Spazzacaldeira

La Fiamma S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lasciamilì 6a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nasi Goreng 6a T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northeast Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Steinfresser 6b S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Via Felice 6a S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Via Leni 6b S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: R Bösch, H Furrer
Page Views: 78 total · 1/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Jun 1, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn

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Description

This route has a somewhat more alpine flair than some others in the area, both with respect to the line and the protection. It has its moments, particularly through some very interesting terrain in the second and third pitches, but also some less than stellar sections though gullies and corners.

The pitches range in difficulty between 5b and 6a.

Location

Roughly in the middle of the climbing area, this route begins at one of the tongues that protudes out.

Descent is by abseil from the ridge, albeit not with the best abseilpiste. The anchors are suboptimal and there are lots of opportunities to get the ropes stock. It might be better to traverse the ridge in one direction or another to use another, better line of descent.

Protection

The fixed protection in this route is a bit spaced and somewhat aged. The anchors are good, and except for the first pitch, there are good opportunities to complement the fixed gear with mobile placements. The bolting up the first slabby pitch is meager and there’s nothing to be done about it.

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