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Routes in Mars Block

Almond Joy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cream Puff S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mounds T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Plain or Peanut S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
School, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Snickers Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Three Musketeers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: M. Massari, Solo
Page Views: 144 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 31, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a good route on good rock. There is more gear and more holds than is immediately apparent from the ground, making for a reasonably good route. The route is not obvious from the ground, but once you start climbing it, the holds will appear. The rock quality here is excellent.

Location

This route starts just left of the Snickers Dihedral and rises up and left under a slight overlap of rock that goes the length of the face. Climb up to that overlap a few feet, then use the best footholds available to slab your way up near-perfect stone. What appears to be (I was soloing and didn't place it) an undercling cam placement will appear just as you need gear. Continue up and left past that onto easier moves, more positive holds, and more gear where you will turn right and go up into a solid crack with gear to the summit.

Protection

A small cam up under an undercling down low, then transitioning to a crack with other gear.

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