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Routes in University of California Berkeley

Doe Library Traverse V7 7A+
Type: Boulder, 80 ft
FA: no idea
Page Views: 1,957 total · 23/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on May 30, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This problem heads horizontally along the north facing corner system on the East (far uphill) part of the Doe Library, which is right in the middle of campus. The route starts on the left end of a system of outside and inside corners, at a point where a large straight wall full of pockets of windows ends, and a small foot rail and vertical 3" left blocked corner picks up, about 6' from the first outside corner, along a system of large 2' tall granite blocks.

Traverse left to right all along the foot rail, using surprisingly balancy motions to move from the initial start around the first outside corner, into a corner window, across a seemingly tough blank face, into another double outside corner / single inside corner move, around an easy corner, JUMP over the double doorway gap, around a few more corners to a tougher gap run / jump to a window well, and then traverse into a final higher ledge inside corner to a VERY dynamic slap to the final outside corner.

This route is a stout v2 to the final move, which is a REALLY hard desperate balancy run / slap to a fairly good outside corner on the upper edges, which is probably v7. The entire route can be done in regular shoes, but climbing shoes are probably better for the final section, if you're willing... Every move can be done individually, and most are v2 on their own.

There are rules though, which are purely for maximizing your entertainment:

1) All horizontal edges and ledges are OFF for hands. This includes the good hands in the starting outside corner, and the window sill in the second inside corner.

2) The double door is OFF. Jump, and watch out for those nasty doorstops.

3) Don't break the window in the second window sill move. Berkeley campus police would be very annoyed.

4) Stay on the upper section (meaning unpainted granite approx 2' off the ground) for the final move if you're going to do the crux. Going to the lower (2" from the ground) section is yet another (very fun!) V2 move.

One of the best things about this route is that you can climb it at ANY time of the day / night. There are two lights that you're going to traverse around which will keep all the moves nice and visible any time of the night. I think the first time I played on this I was fairly tipsy at about 1:30am.

Location

This is on the East end of the North facing section of the Doe library, which is somewhat secluded from the rest of the exterior of the Doe Library. A campus map (and they're everywhere) will give you a good guide if you're not familiar with the Berkeley campus. If you are, it's in the middle slightly on the uphill side!

Protection

None, you're never more than 3' off the ground! A spotter will help in the final move.

Photos

Danny Herrera
San Bruno, CA
Danny Herrera   San Bruno, CA
I think the correct way is no climbing shoes, or downward holds Sep 5, 2016
TOm Ogasawara  
  V8
There are three rules:
1. no vertical holds
2. no climbing shoes
3. no chalk

The opening moves go at around v3, and the last crux move is about v8, and has only seen a handful of ascents. Feb 23, 2018

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