Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Radiant Dome

Radiant Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Star Crossed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: FKA Simon Hatfield, Garrett Helm, 5/11
Page Views: 970 total, 12/month
Shared By: Simon H on May 29, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

1) 5.8, 110ft.
Begins in a right facing corner in a slightly wide, undulating crack. Follow the crack up the corner with excellent stances for pro, takes passive well. Follow the crack through the roof as it passes a scary, grainy, loose block (5.8). Belay once past the roof.

2) 5.7, 160ft.

Follow the beautiful, juggy, crack in a wide corner as it steepens and turns from OW, to fists (5.7) to hands. Belay at a plush, sandy ledge where the two cracks on this face form an X.

3) 5.8, 120ft.
Stay right (switching cracks), and follow a splitter fingercrack in a left facing corner as it approaches a roof. Turn the roof on sinker hand jams (5.8) and follow the glorious juggy handcrack towards the top. Hand traverse when the crack abruptly jogs left, and belay off of a large live oak.

Location

The dark granite of the northwest face of Radiant dome has two distinct cracks that make an X. Star Crossed follows the one that begins climbers right, and switches into the one that finishes climbers right, after the X

From the granite tongue of the north buttress of Radiant Dome, walk 200 yards climbers right around the NW edge of the formation. The climb is easiest to find by visually following the upper crack down to the ground.

Descent) 30 min, 3rd class
Difficult to explain, but pretty intuitive if you're there. Hike southwest along a long, sandy ledge, with a wall to your left, gaining about 100ft of elevation. Continue to the southwest end of the formation, with occasional 3rd class chasm jumps or grainy downclimbs. Keep an eye open for a low angle slab on your right that will take you back down to the dirt. Once on the ground, hike NE towards your packs. The easiest path is right along the edge of the formation.

Protection

Gear to 4". All belays are gear or trees.
For p2, We got away with doubles to #2, and 1x#3, our largest cam. Stronger hikers should bring doubles to #3 and 1x#4.

Photos

Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
Sorry Chris, none Mar 19, 2015
Any new info on this climb, Simon? Feb 11, 2015
Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
Garrett and I climbed this onsight last week after scoping it from the ground and above, and suspecting that it would go (it isn't in the Moser/Vernon guide).

We found no pin scars, no fixed gear, and 1 fragile loose block, all signs pointing to ours being the first ascent. After scouring the internet for trip reports and area topos, and coming up dry, we have listed it as a FKA here on MP.

If you have any information about this climb, or the ones adjacent to it, please contact me. I'd love to learn more about the area. May 29, 2011