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Routes in Wiggins' Wall

Fringe of Death S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Squared S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mo Verde S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moon Age S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smear Campaign S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Youth, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Brian Shelton and Stewart Green, 2009
Page Views: 520 total, 7/month
Shared By: matthew sullivan on May 28, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is a long 1 pitch route. Start with Mo' Verde, but after the first bolt head straight up the wall. The Colorado Climbing guidebook lists this route as a 10a, but there is only 1 or 2 10a moves in the route, mostly it is 9 moves the whole way up. The crux is in between the 3rd and 4th bolts when you are pulling on flakes(pull down, not out!).

Descent: Scramble up above the anchors to top out, and then climb down the back side and around. If you have a 70m rope, you can rap it, too.

Location

This is on the Wiggins Wall, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, CO Springs.

Protection

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (same anchors for The Youth).

Photos

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
I don't know, guys, this was one helluva tough onsight! Tall, hard, and sustained, it reminded me of Green Squared. Although not as hard as that route, Ryan, Mollie, and I all thought this one was sustained, desperate smearing and definitely harder than The Youth. I think a lot of the holds have rounded off and become slick. Great route though! Jul 1, 2013
Newton
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Newton   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+ PG13
3rd bolt is ready to blow, which could result in a groundfall. Apr 8, 2012
FA: Brian Shelton and Stewart Green, 2009.

It is getting easier as the holds get bigger and tiny crimps become big ones. The upper part is mostly just sustained 5.9 moves... Jul 5, 2011