March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit: fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
This route is on the lower left side of the buttress and if you follow the trail from mm 10 you end up at the base. It climbs the second set of bolts on the south slab. Nice views and fun climbing.
From the guidebook: "Begin on the lower left side of the slab near an indentation. This route features some of the thinnest slab climbing on the buttress."
[Hide Comment] A little help with the description.... Instead on going to Devil's Head campgroup and parking area, stay right on Rampart Range Road, drive past the radio tower (on the west side, this is where radio head is), and before the 90 degree right hand switchback, there is a parking area for only 4-6 cars on the east side of the road with a little parking sign (about MM10 on CO 67). Descend the trail to the east into the gully, follow the cairns until you reach the south slab of the buttress, look for a cairn on the slab... descend the stairs and follow the trail to the southeast corner of the buttress just west of an aspen grove. The entire east face is bolted, I believe the guidebook has 24 routes on the east face from 5.9-5.13+. This is why you might want to get a guidebook. Also, from here you have easy access to the Chickenhead Wall, The Jungle, The Headstone, etc.... Very neat place with great views and awesome rock.
Oct 24, 2011
[Hide Comment] Found it real hard to stay on the bolt line. Some of the stances are really thin, so I crossed back and forth, following the weaknesses in the rock.
Jun 14, 2012
[Hide Comment] Balancy, technical slab to a left-leaning crack where you can sink some jams. Not your typical gym 5.9! If you're not used to thin slabs, it may feel harder than 5.9. The bolts near the top feel a bit contrived, they try to force you right when you naturally want to go left.
Jun 20, 2015
[Hide Comment] Excellent, sustained pitch; well-bolted though with committing second and third clips. For what it's worth: 3-inch or so cam between 6 & 7th bolts (crux bulge) turns a horrifying 10-foot potential fall into nerve-wracking 4-footer. Many annoying flies in late June. Apparently a talking elk lives near this crag, but we didn't hear him/her, nor see any elk. Talking elk may be a rumor; no word re: elk's language beyond regular elk sounds.
Jun 29, 2018
Access Issue: Raptor Closures
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