Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Damned if You Don't

5.12a, Sport, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 24 votes
FA: Steve Habovstack, Randy Kieliszewski, June 1998
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Storm Mtn Picni… > Damned Wall
Warning Access Issue: See details in expanded note. DetailsDrop down

Description

Damned if You Don't

starts with a boulder-problem crux past two bolts followed by 5.10 maybe 5.10+ climbing with great position and fun movement, albeit on somewhat suspicious rock. As Tenesmus said in his post on the Dam Wall page, "It has a hard start with a killer deadpoint or nice edgy static moves and then loads of steep movement. Its really fun, quick to get to and worth repeating." Clipping the first bolt is a little attention-getting, but not bad (the truly risk adverse can use a stick clip). Some call this 12b, but it's easier than Big in Japan and Eye in the Sky. (Date of FA from rc.com, which also reports, in a 2003 post by "fanederhand," that this was drilled by hand, on lead!).

Location

Right-most bolt line on Dam Wall, with the first bolt maybe 25 feet high on a relatively smooth looking face.

Protection

A dozen draws if I remember right, but take a few extra to be safe. Best to avoid clipping the third to last bolt (on the slab under the finishing overhang) to avoid rope drag, but bring a long runner if you think you’ll want to. We used a single 70 meter rope to lower/rap to the ground; a 60 meter rope is probably (barely) adequate.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route begins by scrambling up the blocky red section of rock before committing to the steep clean face. Route goes on a long ways above following the corner .
[Hide Photo] Route begins by scrambling up the blocky red section of rock before committing to the steep clean face. Route goes on a long ways above following the corner .
Around half the bolts/nuts have surface rust similar to this. Seem solid enough but a good candidate for a future rebolt.
[Hide Photo] Around half the bolts/nuts have surface rust similar to this. Seem solid enough but a good candidate for a future rebolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] The start was the hardest part for me and the rest was just endurance. If you screw up the start at the first bolt then it's gonna hurt. Jun 10, 2013
Steve Miller
West Jordan
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] High first bolt. Not hard but would be a bad fall before clipping 1st. Crux is moving to second bolt on slabby bad feet. Super pumpy above with a couple really good rests.
This route is long. 60m barely gets you back to the ground. Apr 4, 2020
Tim Myers
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Obvious boulder problem crux between first and second bolt. High right foot and a long right hand stretch to a crimp between the two bolts followed by a somewhat dynamic move to get the left hand from a pocket to a crimp (tall/long person beta). Seems like it would be a really tricky if you were shorter. Plenty of rests above. The route veers left along the arete and you'll lose sight of your belay about 3/4 of the way up. Jun 27, 2022
Scott Stevenson
SLC, UT
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] i left a quicklink on the 4th bolt to make cleaning the last few draws a little easier. might be worth leaving it for others. a couple permadraws would be sick. maybe i’ll contribute them at some point. Apr 14, 2025
Tyler Phillips
Cottonwood Heights, UT
[Hide Comment] A #1 with a sling to the far right of the first bolt in the corner takes the sting out of clipping bolt one, it also helps keep the rope out of your feet while doing the boulder problem. Apr 29, 2026