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Routes in Wild Seed Area

Arbor Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Chameleon, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Doer, Not A Critic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fly Girls S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foutre la Doigt S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fragile Ego System S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gonad the Bavarian S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Muscle Belly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quickie in the Molar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wild Seed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Artz, Eddie Begoon 1988
Page Views: 405 total, 5/month
Shared By: Aeon Aki on May 27, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Traverse in from the left past a small gear placement and clip a very high first bolt (which can be stick-clipped or equipped by lowering from Muscle Belly). Unlock the technical and strenuous crux between the 2nd and third bolt then stay on your feet for micro-crimping past one more bolt and a moderate runout to the Muscle Belly chains.

A second pitch continues straight up and encounters another 5.12a crux but we did not climb it. The latest New River guidebook notes that the top pitch is not equipped with anchors.

The first pitch is a great little route in its own right and will stay dry in the rain.

Location

Left of the Muscle Belly arete on Fern Buttress.

Protection

4 bolts + anchors and optional small gear to reach the first bolt.

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