Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: SBr, JSt
Page Views: 1,269 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jimbo on May 25, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

22 Opinions

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Don't be fooled by the diminutive name, this route is a full meal without the chips and salsa.
Steep and pumpy climbing on good holds leads to the ledge then slightly left to the NORTHeast face for steeper pumpier climbing on bigger holds.

Let it be noted that Dave Merin led this climb on gear the day I top roped it to see if it was worth bolting. He put long slings on the last piece where you could bail to the ledge left, then went out on the face where I climbed on top rope and did the moves. A fall here would have been nasty. He then climbed the crack that forms the arete of the upper head wall. I bolted the line farther left on the steepest part of the head wall. The crack he led yielded scant and marginal gear in marginal rock. He said he didn't think any of it would have held a fall. In fact had he fallen up high he would not be around to read this description.

I chose to bolt a fun and safe route up a tower with several fun and safe routes. Rather than let Dave's very bold lead be the end of it. Dave did say he thought that it would be fine. Of course I did have a fully charged Bosche will a new bit up against his temple when he agreed.


Starts just left of Hennig's Blunder. Top section is on the steeper east face.


Bolts, chains


1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
The steeper "east" face Jim is referring to is actually the North northeast face. Have you forgotten our little drive up Bear Canyon with the compass Jim. The east face is the down hill side of the crag. The route starts on the west face. I know what you are getting for your birthday! Ha Ha. May 26, 2011
DON'T USE THIS FLAKE! You risk dropping the whole thing. I ripped a piece off and almost hit some of my climbing buddies. I etched a spot on the picture where i ripped a piece of rock off. It collapsed when i put my weight on it.
Mar 5, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
Great fun, crux is early moving right to the 4th bolt. The upper section is steep but less difficult. Apr 8, 2013
Just did this route again yesterday. For the life of me I can't figure out why anyone would be anywhere near the flake Severancepay is pointing out. The bolts are way over on the face to the left. Three of us did this route and none of us were ever even close to this flake.

In fact I remembered this post while Aleix was on it and I said to myself "What flake was that guy talking about???"

So if your anywhere close to on route, IE where the bolts are, this flake is of no concern.

Route was better than I remembered it. Which is good I think. Apr 26, 2015
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
There is a lot of loose rock up high on this one, I recommend the belayer stands somewhere out of the line of fire (down and right is good). I'd give it three stars if the rock on the arete was better Sep 11, 2015
Thanks for the heads up Tomily. I'll get out there soon and check the condition of those bolts. You were very likely safe to fall on those bolts. I've done battle with spinners before and in granite they don't pull any easier than any other bolt. Feb 1, 2016
They seem very solid. For future reference, if I encounter this again, should I just do my best to crank them down or just let it be and post on mp? I wasn't sure if I would auger the hole and make it worse with spinning.

Really fun route! Feb 1, 2016
If the bolt is spinning we often loosen the hanger then smack the bolt back into the hole and re-tighten. More times than not this will cause the cone to re-engage the side of the hole and snug down tight. Of course most climbers don't have a hammer with them at the crag. But good on ya for carrying a wrench. That's more than most will do.
You were right to stop trying to tighten the bolt once it was spinning.
Usually a spinning hanger is just a matter of snugging the bolt down again which is a great thing to do. Feb 4, 2016
Tucson, AZ
RobPelon   Tucson, AZ
Nut on the 5th or 6th bolt was spinning. Rock quality and moves on the bottom half of this climb were fantastic. Upper half the rock quality kinda takes away from the ordeal. Jan 8, 2017