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Routes in Lost World at Jacks Canyon

Blood Chemestry Adjustment S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bobcat Roof S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fly'n The Spinnaker S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Nitras Oxide 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Papa Don't Take No Meds S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pink Lung Sissy Boy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake and Bake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Chris Thornley
Page Views: 225 total · 3/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on May 24, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Edit]

While the climbing was enjoyable, especially around the third bolt, the rock quality and bolting makes this one worthy of a 'bomb'.

Immediately after clipping the first bolt I pulled two fist-sized chunks off the wall. Fortunately I had the foresight to not use either of these for the clip. This I can overlook.

After the broken band one is forced to climb above a ledge on abysmal rock. The bolt placement is such that should the climber fall due to poor judgement or a hold breaking he will hit the deck.

Lastly pulling the rope dislodged a massive stone that could have seriously injured anyone standing below. My belayer and I were lucky to have not been hit.

In my opinion this route should undergo further cleaning and the bolting should be reconsidered. I am open to other opinions.

Location [Edit]

This route is the third from the right; between "Nitrous Oxide" and "Gettin' My Fix". It starts just right of a small tree.

Protection [Edit]

8 bolts to anchors.


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