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Routes in Lower Gibraltar

Chimney Sweep T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Conundrum T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Left of Rapture S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lieback Annie T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rapture, The S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Warrior Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Brown, Baird & Grosvenor '87
Page Views: 835 total, 11/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on May 24, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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A short but fun route on the narrow east-facing buttress directly across the creek from T-Crack.

Climb up into an alcove, clip the lone bolt of unknown age and variety, then pull through a short overhang onto a large mantle-shelf. Above this, a unique combination of crack-jamming and arete-slapping will see you through to the top near some large bushes where you build a gear anchor.


East-most end of the Lower Gibraltar formation. The route can be seen directly across the drainage from T-Crack. Approach downhill as for Lieback Annie/Rapture, but fork left when the trail starts to veer right near the cliff-band. A short brush-tunnel and some loose, 4th class gully downclimbing will get you to the base of the route. This is SB adventure climbing, right?


One aging bolt, a few choice pieces from tiny to 1". Build your own anchor.


Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Thank you, THANK YOU for exploring this route and then posting. I have long wondered exactly where this route went. The photos are especially helpful. I'll be sure to climb it ASAP. May 29, 2011
Mike Stearns
Mike Stearns  
Also, once topped out be careful walking off b/c it is very exposed. 4th class X through a yucca. Fun stuff. May 25, 2011