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Control

5.12a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 59 votes
FA: Doug Cosby 1991
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Kaymoor > 6. Butcher's Branch
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Description

Shares the start with the 11d Bourbon Sauce, but goes straight up. Hard 2nd clip, and a crimpy crux leads to larger holds but bigger moves. Move right slightly to the Anchors of Kaos for a rest, and then more fun 10+/11- climbing through horizontals to the anchors.

Location

Right of Bourbon Sauce, left of Kaos.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Steve almost through the crux
[Hide Photo] Steve almost through the crux
Control 5.12a goes through the broken roof system up the face
[Hide Photo] Control 5.12a goes through the broken roof system up the face

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe Whittlesey
Durham, NC
 
[Hide Comment] boulder problem at first then a rest and 10+ climbing to finish it out. Challenging, but not sustained. Work the bottom section a bit then get it done. Nov 8, 2016
Bennett LaFond
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Fun overhanging crimps and some powerful moves. Anywhere but a world class crag like Kaymoor this would be a classic. Despite what Joe said, I found a big move at the top more of the crux than the lower boulder problem. To each their own. Mar 18, 2019
Sam Leitner
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] All of the bolts on this route are looking rusty and corroded. Nothing moving around, but still would be good to replace. May 19, 2020
Mike Farnsworth
Fayetteville, WV
 
[Hide Comment] Really a pretty cool crux sequence on improbably small, but not sharp, holds. Also a fun jump dead point method to get off the ground if you don't want to pull on little nasty holds. I'll second Bennet in saying that anywhere but Kaymoor this would be a classic. Oct 12, 2021
Corey Longboy
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] The crux at bolt 2 involves maybe 3-4 very small, maybe 1/2 pad crimps with decent feet. If you can make it through that, falling anywhere above would be shameful. Similar to Ministry across the crag in terms of style, but better. Nov 8, 2023