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Routes in Far Side Gallery

Curse of Madame C S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla Finishing School S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Left Behind T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Night of the Crash Test Dummies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport Roof Left S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sport Roof Right S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two-Bolt Slab T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 532 total, 7/month
Shared By: Floyd Hayes on May 23, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Scramble up about 20' of class 4 to a short, slightly overhanging bulge with a vertical crack on its right side (about 10' to the right of a bolt). Climb the crack about 20', walk left about 10' and continue up easy class 5 blocks until you reach a belay bolt with nearby cracks for gear near the top of the crag. Alternatively (not recommended), from the top of the crack you can step right and build an anchor in a crack behind the base of a boulder to the right of a tree, and then exit by scrambling class 4 up and right on a pillar above the chaparral to a trail.

Location

Gain the talus ridge just above Kola. Cross west on a faint trail, walk around the corner and down a gully until you see a slabby face on the right with two bolts. Climb the obvious crack to the right of the bolts.

Protection

Gear up to 1.5".

Photos

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Floyd Hayes  
 
A short trad climb with a clean, well-protected crack. I led it onsight with Peter Han on "judgement day" (May 21, 2011), when I was "left behind" along with everybody else, including self-proclaimed prophet Harold Camping. May 23, 2011