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Routes in Far Side Gallery

Curse of Madame C S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla Finishing School S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Left Behind T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Night of the Crash Test Dummies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport Roof Left S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sport Roof Right S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two-Bolt Slab T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 82 total, 1/month
Shared By: Floyd Hayes on May 23, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A relatively long, adventurous route with only about 25 feet of technical climbing. Scramble up about 20' of class 4 to a short, slightly overhanging bulge protected by a bolt. Make a few committing 5.9 moves over the bulge (a fall could result in a sprained or broken ankle) and continue up a 5.7 slab protected by a bolt. Unfortunately there is no anchor at the top of the slab, so continue scrambling up about 50 feet of class 4 boulders (or easy class 5 if you move right above the tree and go up an offwidth crack) to a single-bolt anchor (can be backed up by a cam) near the top of the formation. Walk off a class 3 ridge to the right and down a trail--and don't forget to climb the tiny summit pinnacle with spectacular views.

Location

Gain the talus ridge just above Kola. Cross west on a faint trail, walk around the corner and down a gully until you see a slabby face on the right with two bolts. The Far Side Gallery is just beyond it to the right.

Protection

Two bolts. Take along some cams if you wish to protect class 4 sections and back up the single-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Floyd Hayes  
 
I led it onsight and was disappointed not to find an anchor at the top of the slab, but enjoyed the adventure of climbing upward. May 23, 2011