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Routes in {10} Backdoor

Another Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back Door Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Basement Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Rock Falling S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Coach Demonstrates S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cowboy Arete S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragon Pole T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dragon with Matches T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody's Welfare S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Teeth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hao Ren Alang S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Harley Davidson S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hermit Crab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Class Quickdraw S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Into Thin Air TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jeff's RP Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Five-Thirteen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lava Tube S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lion Queen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Motorcycle S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
New Ferrari S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phantom Fright T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Po V-easy 3
RCC TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Redhead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rodeo Clown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Security Blanket T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sidestep T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Sea T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Legged Cat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Three-Legged Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Twisting S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under the Staircase TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vita S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Water Heater Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Who Fooled Who? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 284 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on May 21, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Start at the large horizontal, and crank up to the first bolt. Follow the dihedral passing 2 more bolts. The first crux is going from the stemmy dihedral to the face, especially so during high humidity.
After the fourth bolt, move to the arete from the overhang and continue up past another roof to the anchors.
Originally rated 11.c, the route has since been downgraded to 11.a. A long reach is helpful for the dihedral, which still hoses me from time to time, while most find the first overhang to be the crux.

Location

Fourth line of bolts from the left.

Protection

Titanium (2016)

Photos

The "nice crimp with a good thumb catch" at the crux is a godsend!
There's a knee bar before last bolt where you can get a no hand rest. Sep 29, 2014
Danger
Taipei City
 
Danger   Taipei City
 
Stellar 11a. I'd say a little beta intensive at the crux face which is littered with chalked holds, with only a few of them usable.

The dihedral involves serious stemming on non-existent feet, so softer shoes can make a huge difference on this climb - bring your slippers with 5.10 stealth or vibram grip, not vibram edge.

Did not have significant issues with the bolts , pretty good stances for most of them even as a shorter fella and very clean falls for the most part. If you're not solid at the grade, stick clipping the first bolt though is a good idea as with 90% of climbs at backdoor.

One last spoiler -- do not read if you want to claim an onsight!----
So I have to admit there was one weird issue with a bolt at the crux(i think the 7th bolt) -- once you clip it, the rope runs right over a nice crimp with a good thumb catch, which is one of the few decent holds in that section. Now there are certainly many different ways to tackle the face crux but for me that crimp hidden behind the rope was $$$. Sep 6, 2014
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
There is really solid thinner gear in the corner and the arete also takes bomber, though widely spaced, cams.

Fun climb. I remember getting destroyed on the initial corner crux after smearing over a sea louse by mistake. Oct 28, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
My friend and I worked this route a few days ago, and it's fantastic... except for one major caveat. The crux isn't a move; it's a clip. The hold you have to clip off of at the crux (6th bolt) is terrible, with terrible feet, and puts you in a very awkward position. In fact, if you were to skip the bolt, or if it were lower and more to the right, you wouldn't even have to use that hold, and the fall would still be clean.

Instead of going straight up the face, just move out right to the arete. Another example of thoughtless bolt placement at Long Dong. Jul 11, 2013