Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 313 total · 3/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on May 21, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Start at the large horizontal, and crank up to the first bolt. Follow the dihedral passing 2 more bolts. The first crux is going from the stemmy dihedral to the face, especially so during high humidity.
After the fourth bolt, move to the arete from the overhang and continue up past another roof to the anchors.
Originally rated 11.c, the route has since been downgraded to 11.a. A long reach is helpful for the dihedral, which still hoses me from time to time, while most find the first overhang to be the crux.

Location

Fourth line of bolts from the left.

Protection

Titanium (2016)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11-
My friend and I worked this route a few days ago, and it's fantastic... except for one major caveat. The crux isn't a move; it's a clip. The hold you have to clip off of at the crux (6th bolt) is terrible, with terrible feet, and puts you in a very awkward position. In fact, if you were to skip the bolt, or if it were lower and more to the right, you wouldn't even have to use that hold, and the fall would still be clean.

Instead of going straight up the face, just move out right to the arete. Another example of thoughtless bolt placement at Long Dong. Jul 11, 2013
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
There is really solid thinner gear in the corner and the arete also takes bomber, though widely spaced, cams.

Fun climb. I remember getting destroyed on the initial corner crux after smearing over a sea louse by mistake. Oct 28, 2013
Danger
Taipei City
 
Danger   Taipei City
 
Stellar 11a. I'd say a little beta intensive at the crux face which is littered with chalked holds, with only a few of them usable.

The dihedral involves serious stemming on non-existent feet, so softer shoes can make a huge difference on this climb - bring your slippers with 5.10 stealth or vibram grip, not vibram edge.

Did not have significant issues with the bolts , pretty good stances for most of them even as a shorter fella and very clean falls for the most part. If you're not solid at the grade, stick clipping the first bolt though is a good idea as with 90% of climbs at backdoor.

One last spoiler -- do not read if you want to claim an onsight!----
So I have to admit there was one weird issue with a bolt at the crux(i think the 7th bolt) -- once you clip it, the rope runs right over a nice crimp with a good thumb catch, which is one of the few decent holds in that section. Now there are certainly many different ways to tackle the face crux but for me that crimp hidden behind the rope was $$$. Sep 6, 2014
The "nice crimp with a good thumb catch" at the crux is a godsend!
There's a knee bar before last bolt where you can get a no hand rest. Sep 29, 2014