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Routes in Great Arch, The

Battery Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beef Stick S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Powder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Stuff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dyn-O-Mite S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ear Drops T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hunt For Red's October, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lip Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Moves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Rick Weber, 2005
Page Views: 927 total, 12/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on May 20, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Hop onto the ledge and stretch up to clip the bolt on the overhanging start. Haul yourself over the initial overhang on good horizontals and thin plates, and then start angling out right and up. Keep on truckin' through the continuous top half until you're at the anchors.

This line did feel a bit contrived to me. I had to constantly watch myself to make sure I wasn't climbing straight up into Dyn-o-mite. But if you stay on route, the rock and the moves are nice. A worthwhile endeavor if you're looking for something a step up from Dyn-o-mite.

Location

Starts near the left end of the Great Arch, just to the right of the sport climb Dyn-o-mite.

Protection

10 bolts, anchors

Photos

S. Neoh
  5.10a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.10a/b
Most climbers find the start rather burly. Very well bolted. Oct 26, 2015