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Routes in Lower Canyon Bands

Precarious Pin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Road Warrior T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dave Melius and Adam Gable early 2000's FFA Trevor Bowman and Clay Stoner 5/15/11
Page Views: 256 total, 3/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on May 17, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

This dramatically overhanging splitter crack is an anomaly for the area and presents a unique challenge. It offers steep jamming (mostly perfect hands) and some great jugs and horizontal rails. It's steep and pumpy from the start, but the horizontal roof at 2/3 height is the crux and requires some savvy sequencing and body english. Once you pull around the roof finish up a vertical face on good pockets and edges. A physical outing with splendid variety that climbs very well!

However...since this is found in the dolomitic limestone before the trailhead, the rock is less than splendid. It is blocky by nature, but a fairly extensive cleaning was done prior to the free ascent and any of the remaining blocks you climb over stood strong against the prybar. The inside of the crack and much of the lower face has some surface grit that should clean up after some traffic, expect some pebbles for the time being. There's also a bit of guano at 1/2 height. Needless to say, one must exercise care on lead; don't pro behind the blocks and set your gear deep. This can also be top-roped (directional recommended) by scrambling around the block 100' left of the crack.

So, overall a good line with excellent movement on slightly dubious stone. If it were on stonker granite it'd be a classic...

Location

Obvious steep crack on small blocky band 100' above the road on the right a couple hundred yards before the trailhead. There's a minor pullout directly beneath it on the left (if heading toward the trailhead), keep the car as far off the road as possible.

Protection

(2) .4 .5 #3 (1) #1 (3-4) #2 (1) new # 4 and #5 Camalots, extended slings. Chains on top.

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