Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft|
|Page Views:||968 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Jon Wood on May 16, 2011|
Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Take the trail from Sunset to the Pear and Apple boulder field. Hop a few boulders to the west side of the field. Follow the trail south a bit, take the side trail that heads under the boulder field. Follow the cave system to the east making your way to the top of the boulders and up to the walls below Pear and Apple. I'm sure there's an easier way to get to this climb, but this way is soooo much more fun. Follow the low angle water streak up to a bowled out area, continue up right and follow the natural moves. We did this route free-solo barefoot. The route is solid but leaves you feeling very exposed. Most of the climb is a scramble, but there are a few moves that felt like a 5.6 and one at the top that almost felt like a 5.7, but probably only felt that way because we had no shoes and it had just rained an hour before.