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Routes in Strangler Cliff

Hillside Strangler T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nevada/Utah Border T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strangle Hold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dan Osman
Page Views: 642 total, 8/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on May 15, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Nevada/Utah Border is a zig zag crack that looks just like the name would imply from a little distance away.

The crux is pulling a bulge with bad feet on fingers leading to fairly sustained cupped hands. One may not find it the 5.9/10 warmup Dano rated it!

Location

On the West facing wall, left of Hillside Strangler.

Protection

Small to 3 1/2" to two bolt anchor

Photos

BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.10+
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.10+
This is a great route, It's a shame caughtinside had such a bad time on it.

Yes, it's definitely sandbagged. I would put the crux move at about 10d (as an onsight). The moves are sequencey and strenuous. But the pro is excellent.

It's a short route. There are chains part way up the upper slab, so no 3rd class over loose rubble. Nov 1, 2015
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
The sandbag rating aside, I had an interesting experience on this one. I took a very short fall attempting the crux, with gear at my waist. The piece I thought was bomber pulled out with a bang and a big shard of rock that fractured right off the wall of the crack. Probably a 1/4" thick and about 3x3". Yikes! rock dust spat in my face and the shard nailed my helmet before sailing off. Inspecting the red alien later, the lobes got totally smushed and smeared. Wild.

Upper hand crack is about one body length before you stand up. There's also a fully detached flake sitting up there, before you straddle a shrub and walk up 40 feet of third class slab covered with rocks to the tree with the rap equipment. Set well back so the pull was not horrible, but not so nice to your rope. Seemed like too much BS for the 10 feet of interesting climbing for my taste, but YMMV. Jun 24, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Yeah, just a wee bit... Jun 19, 2011
Ron Anderson  
 
perhaps a slight sand bagg,,,hehe.... Jun 12, 2011