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Routes in Dino Head

Amazing Dino S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Best Deal in Town S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Best Deal in Town (P2 Variation) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chop Shop S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dewpoint S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dino Found S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dino Later S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dino Remembered S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Dino Who? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dino's Milkmaid S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dino's Stubble Trouble S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flight of the Raven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost Dino S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mama's Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Wave Dino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pocket Rocket S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raspberry Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son of Dino S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Suffering Simians S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 2 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What's Up Dino? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,440 total, 18/month
Shared By: Ty Morrison-Heath on May 14, 2011 with updates
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

A fun two pitch climb that has a great second great pitch. Lives up to the name!

Location

Head right at the fork in the trail and head up to the obvious ramp. Follow the bolts up this for the first pitch topping out on a large ledge system. 1 bolt anchor here with the climb being on the right face and traversing out left following the bolt line. An alternate that I prefer is to climb Raspberry Arete and then rappel down to the start of the second pitch. Best of both worlds!

Protection

Bolts, with a potential for a medium cam to backup the one bolt anchor at the top of the 1st pitch.

Photos

L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.9+
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.9+
all the holds on the traverse are loose, rattling or flexing, as are a good portion of the holds on the face leading to the traverse. There are many better routes than this on the highway, it ranks low even on the Highway scale. Aug 12, 2015
Actually, Jess, I do aspire to climb some of John's routes. He has done some amazing things in the alpine realm. Frozen choss is probably a bit more solid than this route, though. Someone who might step onto this climb expecting the "4-star" experience based on comments here might be extremely dissatisfied, much like myself. Jun 21, 2013
icic-jess
Breckenfridge
icic-jess   Breckenfridge
Another negative comment by Richard! Go climb some of John Kelly's routes and then you can comment on being a choss connoisseur. Jun 20, 2013
IMO - one of the worst chosspiles I've climbed on the highway. Every hold through the crux traverse sequence is flexing badly, and held in place by little more than a thin veneer of mud. The steep face before the traverse is also packed with large, flexing blocks. Not sure why everyone loves this one so much. It's got a couple of neat moves. I'll give it one star for length..

and minus 800 stars for rock quality. Jun 12, 2013
bergbryce
California
 
bergbryce   California
 
One of the best routes on the highway.
Dino Head is also one of the better crags with a fair number of harder bolted routes on good rock (for the Seward highway). May 25, 2011