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Routes in Grey Towers

The Rattler - Cobblers Bench T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bighorn Beatdown - Big Grey Pinnacle T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
East Buttress - Super Grey Pinnacle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Love Line - Lost Pink Tower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Peregrine Pillar - Big Grey Pinnacle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weary Leader, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Rick Wheeler and Kevin Leary, 1978
Page Views: 1,311 total, 17/month
Shared By: jeremy freeman on May 13, 2011 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route follows the most obvious line on Cobblers Tower. No information was known about the route beforehand, though a rusty bolt here and there were found along the way, and during our effort a handful more were placed. A fit and able party could make a huge day of it, but it's recommended to set up camp near the base.

P1: Climb a low-angle ramp to access the obvious rounded right-facing flake, pass a bulge and belay on top of the feature (5.7).

P2: Climb past two bolts on the slab. From here head up the next corner then traverse left to a steep headwall littered with huge jugs, then gain the splitter crack and belay here (5.7).

P3: Climb the chimney/corner and belay at a stance on the right with a bolt anchor (5.7).

P4: From the belay head straight up on 5.8 face to the bolt (very runout). A farther bolt out right leads to the base of the seam - either free climb or clean aid, belay on ledge (5.11a R/5.8 R C2).

P5: Climb the mungy crack to the big ledge (5.8).

P6: Easy 5th with a short crux (5.6?) to a huge ledge with a big tree (5.6).

P7: Continue to the summit via 4th-easy 5th class (do not miss the v1 dyno boulder problem, classic).

Descent: Retrace your steps back to the big tree and rappel from there. The first rappel will get you to the gulley that runs behind the Cobblers Tower (summer snow likely). Rappel again from a large bush down the gulley to the saddle. From here scramble down 4th class ramps and corners including a squeeze behind a chock stone and some route finding back to the base.

Location

Cobblers Tower, Grey Towers, Mayfield Canyon approach.

Protection

Double rack to 3", one 4"
One 60m rope will do it
Richard Shore
  5.11a R
Richard Shore  
  5.11a R
Good route, but strangely bolted on the crux pitch. You have to run it out like 50' off the belay and then make the hardest move yet just to clip the bolt, then bail off right to another bolt while many good stances were passed by the FA party. Beware the old notorious bronze-colored SMC hangers too. There appear to be 2 variations on P2 - the original FA party went out right past a few bolts, but it looked very difficult just to get over there. We went left past the one newer bolt. P6-7 link easily. We were able to downclimb off the summit into the snow-filled gully and then do a single-rope rappel back near the base.

Edit to add: After climbing the incorrectly-drawn line in the old Bartlett Eastside Guide on 10/7/17, I can confirm the route posted here is the "Weary Leader" III 5.10 (sandbag!). FA: Kevin Leary & Rick Wheeler 1978. The description here matches that of the FA party to a T. I will post details of the other route at some point. Apr 16, 2016