Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Rick Wheeler and Kevin Leary, 1978
Page Views: 1,418 total · 15/month
Shared By: jeremy freeman on May 13, 2011 with updates from Richard Shore
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Location

Cobblers Tower, Grey Towers, Mayfield Canyon approach.

Protection

Double rack to 3", one 4"
One 60m rope will do it
Richard Shore
  5.11a R
Richard Shore  
  5.11a R
Good route, but strangely bolted on the crux pitch. You have to run it out like 50' off the belay and then make the hardest move yet just to clip the bolt, then bail off right to another bolt while many good stances were passed by the FA party. Beware the old notorious bronze-colored SMC hangers too. There appear to be 2 variations on P2 - the original FA party went out right past a few bolts, but it looked very difficult just to get over there. We went left past the one newer bolt. P6-7 link easily. We were able to downclimb off the summit into the snow-filled gully and then do a single-rope rappel back near the base. Edit to add: After climbing the incorrectly-drawn line in the old Bartlett Eastside Guide on 10/7/17, I can confirm the route posted here is the "Weary Leader" III 5.10 (sandbag!). FA: Kevin Leary & Rick Wheeler 1978. The description here matches that of the FA party to a T. I will post details of the other route on a separate page. Apr 16, 2016