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Routes in Sunshine Ridge

Draino T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exotic Dancer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fist Sucker S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hey Operator S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Huge Left Faceing Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Last Call S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mayday S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plebeian Paradise S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Poser S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Rain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Road Rash T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Road Soda S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Road Warrior S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sex on the Rocks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunshine Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thrombosis S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unforgiven, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Unknown 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.8+ "Blue Hanger Route" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whajacallit T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,159 total · 74/month
Shared By: Ty Morrison-Heath on May 12, 2011
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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The best rock quality out on the highway (second pitch)? Actually a fun multipitch although on the easy side, Sunshine Ridge is a great afternoon climb. The route starts about 50 feet up the scree gully below morning star. Look for bolts that lead left on a short slab. This is likely most often done as an afterwork solo. It is often done in the winter with tools, and is good prep for alpine mixed.

There are many possible variations that you can start on from the road including mayday, and the two unknown 5.10a's. If you're feeling creative you can also link the Thrombosis climbs into this route.

Pitch 1: 5.7, from some boulders about 50ft up the scree slab, climb past a few bolts (button head) and up onto the ridge. After about 60-70ft from the deck there is small ledge to belay off of with some gear. You can also keep climbing to one bolt one chain anchor above that. 150ft.

Pitch 2: 5.7 From the anchor climb up and to the left and climb a small bulge with some bolts. Climb up past bolts to a large boulder on a ledge. Belay from here. 120ft.

Pitch 3: 5.7 From the boulder climb up the face with some bolts. Climb the 5.6 moves to more easy climbing. There is a two bolt anchor above this. 100ft.

Pitch 4: 5.7 Climb up and left from the anchor to a left to a leftwards leaning crack, climb this and cut back right past a bolt to a two bolt anchor on a small ledge. There are also opportunities to belay from gear above the anchor. 100ft

To descend follow the trail left that will take you down to the car. I have seen some creative and sketchy raps of this route. Usually using the sawed off telephone poles. This is generally not recommended.


This route can be done on a rack of quick draws by most parties, although for those less comfortable with significant runouts in easy climbing, a single rack of cams maybe .3 in to 1.5 inches or stoppers would be fine. You can skip all the bolts and climb this route on gear by staying either right or left. Regardless of whether you choose to clip bolts or plug gear, bring plenty of slings to reduce drag, and plenty of anchor material, including some long sections of webbing or cord to sling the big boulder.


I'd say the climb is closer to 450 feet in length - I stretched the first and last pitches to 45-50M each. Also, this thing is in a bit of disrepair - there are a handful of chopped bolts/stolen hangers, and the bolted belay atop P2 has been chopped (no biggie, gear belay from a solid hand-size crack or go up another 15' and tie off a boulder). The walk-off is to climber's left, and drops you very close to your car. Do not be tempted to descend climber's right - this gully is very loose, steep scree. I'll give it three stars for it's scenic views, length, and overall adventure feel. May 27, 2013
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
Fun solo! Also, the entire climb goes on gear if you stay to the right. Aug 31, 2013
Best route on the arm! May 16, 2014
Sunshine butress seems to have grown as many additional bolts in the last ten years as Anchorage has coffee shops. Sep 26, 2014
L. Von Dommelheimer
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
Who thought it was okay to shit on the ledge with the boulder? WTF is wrong with you? Stacking rocks on it doesn't make it better. Seriously go take care of it. Moron. Apr 17, 2017
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
06/03/2017 - While I admire your taste in beer leaving 3 bottles and bottle caps of Guinness Blonde on route doesn't follow Leave No Trace principals ;-) Thank you very much we cleaned and packed your sh!t out. At least we didn't see the sh!t mentioned above ^^^ Jun 14, 2017
Kevin Downie
Kevin Downie  
Didn't see the single chain anchor for 1st pitch. I saw a 2 chain anchor that I figured was for another climb, so worked on up, but ran out of length on a 60m rope. Has another chain been added? I assume the chain is to the right of the broken telephone pole? Jul 22, 2017
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
You passed the correct anchor. The first pitch anchor was replaced in 2015 and is now links and rap rings. There is no anchor on the lower ledge with the sawed off pole unless you use the stump. A gear anchor can be made if you miss the 2 bolt and rap ring anchor. Jul 22, 2017
Can anybody give me full beta on the State of the anchors? Dec 24, 2017
L. Von Dommelheimer
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
Hi Joe,
Anchor One: Two Asca bolts
Anchor Two: Slung boulder on a large ledge
Anchor Three: Two bolts (decent)
Anchor Four: Two rusty 1/2inch bolts.

Some people make a gear anchor about 50ft before the first bolted anchor. Dec 28, 2017
Thanks! Gonna climb it this summer when I come out. Jan 12, 2018

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