Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,359 total · 84/month
Shared By: Ty Morrison-Heath on May 12, 2011
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

The best rock quality out on the highway (second pitch)? Actually a fun multipitch although on the easy side, Sunshine Ridge is a great afternoon climb. The route starts about 50 feet up the scree gully below morning star. Look for bolts that lead left on a short slab. This is likely most often done as an afterwork solo. It is often done in the winter with tools, and is good prep for alpine mixed.

There are many possible variations that you can start on from the road including mayday, and the two unknown 5.10a's. If you're feeling creative you can also link the Thrombosis climbs into this route.

Pitch 1: 5.7, from some boulders about 50ft up the scree slab, climb past a few bolts (button head) and up onto the ridge. After about 60-70ft from the deck there is small ledge to belay off of with some gear. You can also keep climbing to one bolt one chain anchor above that. 150ft.

Pitch 2: 5.7 From the anchor climb up and to the left and climb a small bulge with some bolts. Climb up past bolts to a large boulder on a ledge. Belay from here. 120ft.

Pitch 3: 5.7 From the boulder climb up the face with some bolts. Climb the 5.6 moves to more easy climbing. There is a two bolt anchor above this. 100ft.

Pitch 4: 5.7 Climb up and left from the anchor to a left to a leftwards leaning crack, climb this and cut back right past a bolt to a two bolt anchor on a small ledge. There are also opportunities to belay from gear above the anchor. 100ft

To descend follow the trail left that will take you down to the car. I have seen some creative and sketchy raps of this route. Usually using the sawed off telephone poles. This is generally not recommended.

Protection

This route can be done on a rack of quick draws by most parties, although for those less comfortable with significant runouts in easy climbing, a single rack of cams maybe .3 in to 1.5 inches or stoppers would be fine. You can skip all the bolts and climb this route on gear by staying either right or left. Regardless of whether you choose to clip bolts or plug gear, bring plenty of slings to reduce drag, and plenty of anchor material, including some long sections of webbing or cord to sling the big boulder.

Photos