To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
The Guillotine
5.10,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 23
votes
FA: Gavin Ferguson & Kory Nelson 2/05
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Trout Creek
> Main Wall
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev… blm.gov/or/districts/prinev… ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
Long reaches between good jams lead to a gradually widening off-width finish. The angle eases slightly for the wide section, making it more forgiving than other off-widths on the Main Wall.
Location
Two routes to the right of the hanging column on Geologic Time. It's the relatively small crack between Adipose and Gas Chamber with a recently exfoliated block at the start.
Protection
Pro to 5". Anchors are set back from the top of the column. Careful not to get your rope stuck when you pull it.
![Rope in photo hangs over "The Guillotine" on left side, and "Gas chamber" is OW in center]()
[Hide Photo] Rope in photo hangs over "The Guillotine" on left side, and "Gas chamber" is OW in center
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
