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Routes in Avalanche Wall

Communication Breakdown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Echoes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Faraway Laughter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Robert Plant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze My Lemon T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Swan Song T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
When the Levee Breaks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Victor Lawson/Shadow Ayala
Page Views: 1,035 total, 13/month
Shared By: Shadow Ayala on May 11, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

You can't miss this one. 4th class scrambling leads to the base of a massive flaring chimney in the middle of the wall. Climb the dingy, crumbly beginning to the base of the chimney. Clip the rouge bolt, then squeeze and squirm your way up the amazing black chimney protecting any chance you get. Gear placements are sparse and creative. Build a gear anchor once you reach the alcove with the short overhanging roof crack just above your head. Plug as much gear in the crack as you can from your tippy toes, raise your psych level, and fire the strenuous roof crack. *(Attentive belay is key here, especially for the second.) Pull around the corner at the lip of the roof and soak up the wild exposure as you head for the slab. Climbed from the ground up. Very Yosemite-esque.

Location

the massive chimney in the middle of the wall.

Protection

Gear to 3", 1 bolt, nuts and small cams useful, extra long slings for chock stones.
Gear anchor (2x3",1x2"). Second pitch has bolted anchor.
One 70m rope. Rap to 'Levee' anchors then rap again.
Bring a crashpad for the second pitch.

Photos

Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
  5.11b/c
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
  5.11b/c
Update! Bolted anchors now up on top of Squeeze my Lemon! No need to go to the tree anymore, one rope gets you down w/ two raps (rap to When the Levee Breaks anchor). I'm pretty sure a 60m would work...it sure seemed like there was enuf tail left in my 70, but i'm not CERTAIN....a 60m deff. works when rapping When the Levee Breaks if you head left to the scrambly ledges at the base of Squeeze my Lemon. May 31, 2011
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
  5.11b/c
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
  5.11b/c
It all began with an urge...and a sick looking maw...
Scrambled up to the base...started up the route proper w/o even a helmet OR nut-tool...got in that black smooth chimney and decided I didn't want to hit the ground if I slid out of it's dusty clutches...
So, I wedged myself in the chimney, best I could and went off belay while Shadow went and got the drill...in went a bolt, then after lowering the drill back down, off I went into the squeeze, and up and up to a sick belay on a giant chockstone, to bring Shadow up...ROOF CRACK! A few falls at first...then finally jamming and magic got me to the lip...now on easy ground, but w/ no gear, celebratory stickiness got me to a tree...I am psyched. May 11, 2011