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Routes in The Stadium
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Areterection S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ascentuality T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Augenblick S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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BG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Tide (CLOSED) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cheetah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dreamthiever T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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ED T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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El Patron S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Endangered Species S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Environmental Imperialism T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flying J T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gnome Wrecker S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hawk Tuah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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High Times V0 4 |
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In a Pinch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Indecision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kentucky Waterfall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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KS S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Melancholy Mechanics S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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No Bones About It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pessimist, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Psycho Billy Cadillac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ring of Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scrumbulglazer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tradisfaction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Treetop Terror T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tug-O-War S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Walk the Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Water Music S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Jared Hancock, J.J., 2006 |
| Page Views: | 2,034 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on May 10, 2011 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
A fun mixed line that climbs the easiest path through the large roof. Some big airy moves between large juggy horizontals make this an exciting lead for the grade.
Find the easiest jugs hands low to reach and start yarding through big horizontals. Clip the first bolt and continue up underneath the roof. Clip the next bolt and "walk the line" under the roof to a slightly tricky step around. Be sure to extend both bolts to prevent drag up high. Get established into the crack and start placing gear. Follow the crack with some great stemming and jams to a very easy slab with a single bolt. Clip the bolt or place gear in the horizontals on the slab or skip the pro all together. Paddle your way up the short distance to the anchors.
Find the easiest jugs hands low to reach and start yarding through big horizontals. Clip the first bolt and continue up underneath the roof. Clip the next bolt and "walk the line" under the roof to a slightly tricky step around. Be sure to extend both bolts to prevent drag up high. Get established into the crack and start placing gear. Follow the crack with some great stemming and jams to a very easy slab with a single bolt. Clip the bolt or place gear in the horizontals on the slab or skip the pro all together. Paddle your way up the short distance to the anchors.
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