Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jared Hancock, J.J., 2006
Page Views: 753 total · 8/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on May 10, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

A fun mixed line that climbs the easiest path through the large roof. Some big airy moves between large juggy horizontals make this an exciting lead for the grade.

Find the easiest jugs hands low to reach and start yarding through big horizontals. Clip the first bolt and continue up underneath the roof. Clip the next bolt and "walk the line" under the roof to a slightly tricky step around. Be sure to extend both bolts to prevent drag up high. Get established into the crack and start placing gear. Follow the crack with some great stemming and jams to a very easy slab with a single bolt. Clip the bolt or place gear in the horizontals on the slab or skip the pro all together. Paddle your way up the short distance to the anchors.

Location

From the approach trail make a left when you meet the wall. About 30' to the left there are two bolts that are easy to see. The route also has a tag. It is just to the right of Psycho Billy.

Protection

Single rack, nuts, tricams, long runners. 3 bolts in total on the climb. A two bolt anchor for the rappel. Rappel with a 60m rope into the trees below.

Photos

highneed  
 
Yet another neglected climb. If this where at Bruise Brothers it would have a day long line. 5.9 bolts though a huge roof than 5.7 pillows to the end. Walk out here and get on it. Sep 7, 2016
Jared Hancock
Travelers Rest, SC
 
Jared Hancock   Travelers Rest, SC
 
Another nice mixed route. Jul 17, 2018