Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Ed Griffiths, Jeff Smith, Ken Thompson, 2004
Page Views: 1,352 total · 15/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on May 10, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


52 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun mixed line with a good bit of variety. The start has some questionable rock, but this portion is bolt protected. A great lead for a budding trad leader. Get some good practice placing a variety of gear.

Start from a boulder at a steep bulge. Step up through some easy ledges to the bolt. Clip the bolt and get under the slightly awkward mini roof (crux). Start plugging pro in the crack that leads up and right through some ledges. Follow the crack further up and right until it turns left. Follow the groove/crack to an easy slab section to the two bolt anchor.

Location

From the approach trail turn left when you meet the base of the wall. Head left for about 50'. Right before you duck under to head to the Tradisfaction area the climb starts. There is a tag that also marks the climb. Just left of Walk the Line and Pyscho Billy.

Protection

Single rack, nuts, tricams, many long runners for the gear above. A single bolt protects the opening moves. Two bolt anchor to rappel. Rappel using a 60m rope.

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
a stick clip is a good idea if you want to lead this. there's an iffy cam placement below the bolt, but the rock is spooky and the landing would be horrible. Oct 16, 2012
A stick clip isn't a bad idea, but if you've done any sport climbing at all the crux move is very casual- huge jugs the whole way. Once you get up over the roof, there are awesome cracks for a while until they flare out near the top. View from up there is great! Oct 22, 2013
artem Vasilyev
New York, NY
artem Vasilyev   New York, NY
Blew choss off with my foot during the initial runout so be careful.

If you want brownie points, skip the bolt down low and go straight for the little crack at the lip of the route that takes bomber gear.

Beautiful view from the top. Sep 9, 2015
artem Vasilyev
New York, NY
artem Vasilyev   New York, NY
Somebody got a .75 green x4 hopelessly stuck in the first gear placement. How they got it in there is impressive to say the least, spent a solid 30 minutes whacking at it from every angle but it's basically a fixture at this point.

If you can get it out, teach me your black magic. Dec 13, 2015
highneed
  5.8-
highneed  
  5.8-
Neglected route needs more traffic, very fun and a unique experience for the RRG climber.v Sep 7, 2016
Douglas Kempthorne
Cincinnati, OH
  5.8
Douglas Kempthorne   Cincinnati, OH
  5.8
Second on the neglected route, it's a great climb. As of Oct 2017, there is now a second pitch that gives an even more amazing view of Muir Valley. Pitch 2 is bolted - 2 bolts to a higher anchor, maybe another 20-30 feet. You can rap from the higher anchor with a 70 meter rope - a 60 meter rope will NOT reach. It could be done a single pitch but the p2 anchor adds a lot of rope drag from the ground. Oct 9, 2017