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Routes in Outhouse Wall

Crag Rat Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jam Session T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Karate Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Partly Sonnie TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roasting Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Spiderline T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tricks are for Kids T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Harrison/Broussard '83
Page Views: 358 total, 4/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on May 9, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Climb the initial easiness shared with Spiderline, build an anchor on hand-size cams on the left end of the ledge. Climb left, heading up to a (now) fat bolt on decent but thin holds. Climb the face above, looking intently for gear, then slab it out to the shared top ledge/tree with Spiderline. A heady, old-school route, but at least the bolt's good-it was solidly X-rated when I lead this on the original paper-thin SMC hanger and a shorty quarter-incher that left a long rust streak to remember it by. Thanks to the ASCA for the replacement.

Location

Same start as Spiderline, walk the initial ledge left to anchor to start the route.

Protection

Falling off prior to clipping the bolt would be a bad idea, but the crux comes afterward, on thin, flexing, crunchy holds. Some finger-size gear up higher helps you relax as the angle relents. Single rack and a long sling (4') for the tree up top keeps the sap off your rope.

Photos

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The 1/4 inch "coffin nail" broke off under hand tension as I tried to loosen the nut. The SS 1/2 with a Fixe hanger that's up there now is more reassuring.

Changed name on this one to the old guidebook version as of 3/12, had it listed as "Rasting Affair" but as Danny Meyers pointed out, that's probably not the name Wendell intended. Will ask him about it sometime, but hopefully this makes the MP page easier to match up to the guidebook. May 9, 2011