5.11c R,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 1.8 from 4
votes
FA: Tucker Tech and Ray Olsen (1989)
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> C. El Cap Picni…
> 2. Loggerhead Buttress
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Follow a seam that angles up to the right. Good TCU's protect the first crux (11a) as you pull around to the right side of the arete. Clip a bolt and climb up a small shallow groove leading up to another thin crux (11c). Above is a small overlap which must be passed on the right side of the arete (11b). After that the climb eases, especially if you're on toprope. For the lead, however, you will need to keep a cool head as you make some scary 5.10 moves about 15 feet out from a bolt.