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Edge-u-cator

5.11c R, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
FA: Tucker Tech and Ray Olsen (1989)
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > C. El Cap Picni… > 2. Loggerhead Buttress
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Description

A bold lead or easily toproped after climbing Sorry Poopsie or Conquest of the Stud Monkey.

Follow a seam that angles up to the right. Good TCU's protect the first crux (11a) as you pull around to the right side of the arete. Clip a bolt and climb up a small shallow groove leading up to another thin crux (11c). Above is a small overlap which must be passed on the right side of the arete (11b). After that the climb eases, especially if you're on toprope. For the lead, however, you will need to keep a cool head as you make some scary 5.10 moves about 15 feet out from a bolt.

Protection

4 bolts, small gear