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Routes in 6 - Finger Lickin' Area

Finger Lickin' T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fun Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Health Insurance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High Profile T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jaw Bone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandora's Box T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Petty Larceny T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pinky Paralysis T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
R and R T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snatch Power T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mark Chapman and Kevin Worrall (1973)
Page Views: 83 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bryan G on May 8, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a fun, albeit short, fist crack that is logistically a bit of a pain in the ass to climb. If you scramble to the right of Finger Lickin' you will see to large cracks/corners that face south. The right one is a chimney, and the left one is Pandora's Box.

Scramble down a brush filled gully (there is usually a fixed line here) until there is a short drop-off. You must find a place to belay here amongst the trees. The belayer will probably want an anchor. There is some easy hand-jamming to get up to the base of the fist crack. The crack starts out as #4 Camalots and narrows to 3's. Above is a slabby ledge that is capped by an overhang. The climb finishes out the left side of the overhang. There's some good pro here (small to fingers) and I had to stand in slings to get over the bulge (probably more like 5.10+ to free).

At the stance above I found a couple small hexes with some very tattered webbing. I added a large nut and got the whole rig equalized with some fresh cord and a locker, so the anchor should be bomber for a while but the soft materials will need to be replaced eventually. The guidebook also shows the option of topping out and walking off, but who knows what kind of poison oak infested nightmare that would be.

Protection

Pro to 4", especially 3.5"

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