All Locations > Vermont > 2. Central Vermont > Deer Leap > Main wall

Simple and Independent Minds

Name: Simple and Independent Minds
Rating: 4.0

5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British C2- PG13

Routes in Main wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black Wonton, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Bulge (AKA - The Flying Groundhog), The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Celibacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Center Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Monkey Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Monkey, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Off Width T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Perfect Pint T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Pit and the Pendulum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Simple and Independent Minds T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C2- PG13
	Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Tonys Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, Aid, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	Guy Alsentzer
Page Views:	2,805 total · 17/month
Shared By:	GuyA on May 8, 2011
Admins:	Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

At the right side of the cave @ Deer Leap's Right End is a wildly overhanging crack with a fixed RURP (broken cable) at its bottom. The crack starts incipient and widens to off-hands, overhanging roughly 10-15' in 50 vertical feet. The first section climbs as two stout boulder problems without a rest between, while the wide crack in the second half taps different technique. FA: 5.12 C2- [8/17/2010]. It should go fully free: go get it!

Location

Deer Leap, VT. Hike to main wall, then to the Right End with a big cave. S.I.M is the overhanging crack climber's right of the cave.

Protection

The broken RURP at the start should be replaced. Anchors up and right once over the lip. Ballnutz, nuts, TCUs, .3, .4, .5, 2x #1, 2x #2, 1x#3. Secure gear nest and commitment required for the start.