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Routes in Deer Leap

Black Wonton, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bulge (AKA - The Flying Groundhog), The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Celibacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Center Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pit and the Pendulum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simple and Independent Minds T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C2- PG13
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tonys Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Aid, 50 ft
FA: Guy Alsentzer
Page Views: 1,283 total, 16/month
Shared By: GuyA on May 8, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

At the right side of the cave @ Deer Leap's Right End is a wildly overhanging crack with a fixed RURP (broken cable) at its bottom. The crack starts incipient and widens to off-hands, overhanging roughly 10-15' in 50 vertical feet. The first section climbs as two stout boulder problems without a rest between, while the wide crack in the second half taps different technique. FA: 5.12 C2- [8/17/2010]. It should go fully free: go get it!

Location

Deer Leap, VT. Hike to main wall, then to the Right End with a big cave. S.I.M is the overhanging crack climber's right of the cave.

Protection

The broken RURP at the start should be replaced. Anchors up and right once over the lip. Ballnutz, nuts, TCUs, .3, .4, .5, 2x #1, 2x #2, 1x#3. Secure gear nest and commitment required for the start.

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