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Routes in Mt. Shasta

Avalanche Gulch Mod. Snow
Casaval Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Green Butte Ridge
Hotlum Glacier Route AI1-2 Steep Snow
Hotlum-Bolam Ridge AI1-2
West Face Gully
Type: Ice, Alpine, 6000 ft, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,329 total, 67/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on May 7, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

From Northgate Park follow the trail south to the base of the ridge. Continue up the ridge, easier in early season, to the top of the ridge at 12,000ft. Follow the path of least resistance, typically to the climber's right (west) to the plateau and work back left (east) to the summit. Take note of the large crevasse that forms on the Hotlum Glacier. Work well to the west of it on the descent.

Location

North face of Mt. Shasta from Northgate Park Trailhead.

Protection

Solo. Some parties may utilize a rope in early season.
Mark Force
Ashland, Oregon
Mark Force   Ashland, Oregon
The gully at the western edge of Hotlam glacier can be WI 1-2 in late season when the snow cover is gone or very thin. Feb 27, 2016
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
AJ & Xam....I'm with you on this. It should be AI 1/2, but shows a consensus WI5+. Must be the algorithm. Jun 20, 2013
Xam
Boulder, Co
Xam   Boulder, Co
I think it is problem with the algorithm...it looks like it goes in order of increasing difficulty (by the website, obviously not correct) WI1, WI2, ... , WI5, AI1, AI2, ... , AI5. So the average ('consensus') of some WI1-2 and some AI1-2 is WI5+. Obviously a goof but should be simple to correct. May 9, 2013
I'm wondering why it says consensus is WI5+ for this route?? It looks like it should be WI 2-3. I haven't done it, but it seems a bit counter intuitive to say WI 5+ and then suggest "no protection, solo" for protection. A little confused, Andy Mar 1, 2013