[Hide Comment] I've always thought of this climb as a benchmark for the area - if its harder than Inca Roads its 5.10, if its equal to it or less its not. Apr 19, 2012

[Hide Comment] This climb is very good and is definitely no harder than 5.9. Oct 16, 2012

[Hide Comment] This is one of my favorite 5.9 cracks anywhere. The wide part maybe hard if you are short and have small hands, a # 4 works or a #5 works there, good to double up with cams 2-3" if in doubt of your crack skills. Feb 25, 2014

[Hide Comment] This is a super route! One of the best 5.9s I've climbed anywhere. I am short (5'4") with very small hands (#1 BD cam) and bad at wide cracks, but the wide part in the beginning was not the crux for me (you can basically avoid it). Apr 25, 2014

[Hide Comment] My favorite crack 5.9 and under at Royal Columns! Less scary and better gear than several easier routes. Eats nuts in the thinner section.
I was happy to have a BD #4 & 5 for the wide bit, although a #6 would get you safe faster after the runout start with marginal small gear.
Beware lowering, the captives are the perfect length to pinch your rope against a rough edge. It's even hard to pull the rope after rappel, make sure to pull the bottom strand (against the rock). The chains need to be about 2" longer to avoid this. May 6, 2021

[Hide Comment] Felt stout to me. The fingers section felt insecure with little foot placements. IMO, bring doubles for sure on this route. May 8, 2021