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The Repentance Crack

5.7 PG13, Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 14 votes
FA: Historic?
Wisconsin > Central > Hillbilly Hollow > Hillbilly Routes

Description

Dirty, dirty, dirty. The line follows the crack system about 5 feet left of "The Curse of the Drill." The crack terminates near the anchors of "Curse," as well. The crux was high off the ground, probably around 10 feet from the top with a lieback. Either that or just figuring out the gear. Definitely kept me on my toes. Did I mention it was dirty?

Location

Crack system between "Penitent Crack" and "The Curse of the Drill." There is a pine tree around 30 or so feet up growing out of the crack. Rap off the anchors for "Curse" or top out and walk back around.

Protection

Smaller gear, nothing bigger than a number 4 Metolius TCU, I was glad I brought my hexes, and I dropped in a stopper or two also. There is a pretty decent size runout low to the ground, and a lot of the gear was finicky, to say the least.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Josh Olson after his second lead of The Repentance Crack.
[Hide Photo] Josh Olson after his second lead of The Repentance Crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Josh Olson
Durango, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Me and Caleb Cerling led this route for our first time last summer. I would love to know if anyone else has lead this. Also, I like dirty little head games, so I love this route. May 7, 2011
Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] I think this route has been climbed before, but I've never heard of a name for it. Repentance Crack sounds good. We briefly thought of bolting it, but as you found out, it has just enough gear placements to barely justify a gear lead. None of us climbed it. We just rappelled it to check it out. May 8, 2011
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Sounds good Jay. Also, I'm curious about a lot of lines that aren't in this database. Did you or do you know of anybody that did a lot of gear leading in the hollow? I've found around five other lines, and I'd like to figure out the history of the area a little better. May 8, 2011
Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] Hey Josh, there are a few other lines out there. I'm not sure about their quality though. I would urge against you adding those to the database until you climb on them, however. It's best to gain solid information about the routes before you add them. That way, MP can be a truly accurate resource for rock climbs. May 9, 2011
Matthew Clausen
Madison, WI
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Not nearly as dirty these days, and protects well enough. The crack is on a flake system, so I wouldn't want to take a major whipper and risk breaking the rock. First piece is high, but it's a 5.3 scramble to reach it. Convenient finish on the anchors for Curse of the Drill next to it. Aug 18, 2014
Doug Hemken
Delta, CO
[Hide Comment] Someone retrobolted this route? (I heard from someone who suggested this is now a sport route.) Aug 7, 2023
Michael Wolfe
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Was at the Hollow last weekend. Belayers with Benifits and Curse of the Drill are about 20 ft apart, so this crack is tightly sandwhich'd between two bolt lines, making everything sort of an eliminate. Aug 7, 2023
Doug Hemken
Delta, CO
[Hide Comment] So there are not any new bolts on Repentance, and BWB is actually the squeeze job (since it came last)? Aug 7, 2023
Michael Wolfe
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Yes, that's correct, Doug. There are lots of tightly packed bolt lines at the Hollow these days. Aug 10, 2023
Sam Francis
Rock Springs, WI
[Hide Comment] The Chossman strikes again Aug 11, 2023