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The Baby's Cry

V4, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 27 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Pawtuckaway > Round Pond > 02. Gadgetry Boulders

Description

A beautiful, striking arete that is both deceptive and frustrating. It's about as much of a V3 as the dyno method on it's neighbor, the Crimp Problem, which is to say they're both probably sandbagged or skewed in favor of the taller climber. If you're up to it, have a seat at the base of the arete with a right hand crimp and your left hand pulling on the arete. Bump up the arete a few times, grab a terrible crimp with your right hand and decide if you want to keep bumping up the arete or dyno to the juggy lip. I'll leave it to you to figure out the footwork.

Location

Atop the hill and between Jelly Rock/Try Again and the Hemlock Boulder/Big & Tall, this boulder forms the narrow corridor with Gadgetry, Maxim, etc. This climbs the sharp arete left of the Crimp Problem.

Protection

Pad

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lanky
Tired
  V4
[Hide Comment] Feels solid V4 to me. Similar difficulty to Hobbit Direct, though completely different in style. May 4, 2011
Troy Fauteux
Henniker, NH
 
[Hide Comment] I had never tried or even heard of this climb before, so we weren't sure quite how to do it, but this is what we came up with. Pretty cool this way! youtube.com/watch?v=ZMANL5m… Aug 11, 2016
Alec Woolley
Greenfield, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Looks like a fun variation! Probably more fun than the original, which stays on the right side of the arete, next to the crimp problem. Aug 11, 2016
Eli B
noco
  V4
[Hide Comment] Upon finding the right holds and the beta for this problem, I can say with some level of confidence that it is a really good sleeper problem with no sharp holds. Think compressiony arete slapping, techy foot moves, and a big explosive move to close the deal. Don't grab any of that sharp garbage or you will be forced to give this climb 1 star and hate it. Jan 21, 2018