Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 871 total · 9/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on May 4, 2011
Admins: BDalhaus, J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

20 Opinions

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A beautiful, striking arete that is both deceptive and frustrating. It's about as much of a V3 as the dyno method on it's neighbor, the Crimp Problem, which is to say they're both probably sandbagged or skewed in favor of the taller climber. If you're up to it, have a seat at the base of the arete with a right hand crimp and your left hand pulling on the arete. Bump up the arete a few times, grab a terrible crimp with your right hand and decide if you want to keep bumping up the arete or dyno to the juggy lip. I'll leave it to you to figure out the footwork.


Atop the hill and between Jelly Rock/Try Again and the Hemlock Boulder/Big & Tall, this boulder forms the narrow corridor with Gadgetry, Maxim, etc. This climbs the sharp arete left of the Crimp Problem.




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Lanky   Tired
Feels solid V4 to me. Similar difficulty to Hobbit Direct, though completely different in style. May 4, 2011
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
I had never tried or even heard of this climb before, so we weren't sure quite how to do it, but this is what we came up with. Pretty cool this way!youtube.com/watch?v=ZMANL5m… Aug 11, 2016
Alec Woolley
Alec Woolley   Allenstown
Looks like a fun variation! Probably more fun than the original, which stays on the right side of the arete, next to the crimp problem. Aug 11, 2016
Graham O.  
Very dynamic and actually quite fun, despite how sharp and height-dependent it is. Reminded me of Poseidon at the Swamp Boulders. Nov 13, 2016
Bobby Mustard  
Upon finding the right holds and the beta for this problem, I can say with some level of confidence that it is a really good sleeper problem with no sharp holds. Think compressiony arete slapping, techy foot moves, and a big explosive move to close the deal. Don't grab any of that sharp garbage or you will be forced to give this climb 1 star and hate it. Jan 21, 2018