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Routes in Cascade Pass

Buster WI2-3
Cascade, The WI2+
Cascade: Slot to Amphitheater T WI3-4
Cysty Ugler WI3+ M4+
Early Bird Special T WI4+ M4-5 PG13
Feeding Frenzy T WI3+
Green Gully WI3+
Jaws T WI4-5
Killer Whale T WI3+
Pitchoff Left TR WI4-
Pitchoff Quarry T,TR WI4-5
Pitchoff Right T,TR WI3-4
Sisters Right WI4
Slutty Other T M3+
Three Flows WI3-4
Top Of The Lakes Gullys WI2
Wetfoot WI4- R
Type: Ice, 1200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,048 total, 101/month
Shared By: Simon Thompson on May 4, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

This is an easy but exceptionally fun climb. Follow the obvious flow up to a belay from a tree on the left. The second pitch involves 2 small and steeper ice steps. If there is a lot of water running underneath the ice this climb becomes a bit more difficult.

Location

The route can be spied on the right after you pass the Cascade/Pitchoff hiking trailhead driving from Lake Placid toward Keene. Approach via the picnic area and follow the drainage uphill until the climb becomes visible. Snowshoes or skis usually essential to avoid miserable post-holing.

Descent: The guidebook recommends scrambling down climbers left through cedars, near to the climb Green Gully(3+). You can also go down and right. Either way, keep crampons on and have a tool handy because some spots can be tricky. Rappel with two ropes is also possible.

Protection

Screws.
Kyle Harris
Nashville TN
Kyle Harris   Nashville TN
youtu.be/6lL80kbk0Mc Nov 10, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  WI3
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  WI3
I soloed this post-Irene (Feb 2013 or 2014 ?) and found a quite difficult move at the very top exit of the first waterfall. Don't know how to rate it, since I hooked a root, but I think the final few feet of the first waterfall is considerably more difficult than it was pre-Irene. Of course, year-to-year, if not month-to-month, things change.

Above the waterfall, the climb is a nice cruse! However, it is wide open enough to develop avalanche conditions (esp. windslab), so "be aware" and maybe take the more conservative route (e.g. with some trees on the slope), especially on the snow. May 23, 2016
Ben Brotelho
Albany, NY
  WI2+
Ben Brotelho   Albany, NY
  WI2+
Morgan: When did you do this climb? I am thinking of checking it out tomorrow afternoon while waiting for a partner to meet me in the 'Dacks. I did the climb before Irene, but I'm wondering if the hurricane made it slightly harder, or just more enjoyable?

Thanks Jan 19, 2012
Morgan4785  
 
The new slide above the Cascade waterfall has created a mega classic route to the summit in VERY LOW SNOW conditions. Above the waterfall, stay right instead of heading up left into the woods. After walking through a narrow section, aim up and left on ice bulges to gain the beautiful dike (a 8-10 foot wide slot that goes on for 125ft) that leads up to another WI2ish step. Following that step, there is a bit of hiking and then another 150 ft of low angle ice up top. Expect another 20-30 minutes of easy hiking through uncharacteristically open woods to the summit. Jan 2, 2012
Brian Haugli
Shrewsbury, MA
Brian Haugli   Shrewsbury, MA
After Irene, this will be much longer of a climb. Can't wait for this season! Sep 1, 2011