Cima Ovest, N.E. Arete
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 15 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Demuth, Lichtenegger, and Peringer|
|Page Views:||590 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Rodger Raubach on May 4, 2011|
DescriptionThe routefinding is relatively straightforward. Follow the initial wide crack to a rubble covered ledge. Proceed directly upward following the line of least resistance and several old fixed pitons. belay ledges are conveniently spaced until near the top. Much of the climbing is lower-middle fifth clsss (126.96.36.199) until a few hundred feet below the summit, at which point the difficulty increases. A steep stemming problem in a crack/dihedral at 5.8+/5.9- (a "hard Very Severe" according to my British parner, Lew Brown) pitch initiates the harder climbing. Looking upwards, the route is obvious, on steep and nearly crackless rock and is nearing 5.9 in difficulty. This is "R" rated terrain; don't fall.
Descend to the South, watching for old World War I barbed wire entanglements.