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Routes in Cima Ovest

Cima Ovest, N.E. Arete T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Cima Ovest-North Face - Cassin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Innerkofler (Via Normale) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 15 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Demuth, Lichtenegger, and Peringer
Page Views: 590 total, 7/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on May 4, 2011
Admins: Tim Wolfe

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Description

The routefinding is relatively straightforward. Follow the initial wide crack to a rubble covered ledge. Proceed directly upward following the line of least resistance and several old fixed pitons. belay ledges are conveniently spaced until near the top. Much of the climbing is lower-middle fifth clsss (5.5.5.7) until a few hundred feet below the summit, at which point the difficulty increases. A steep stemming problem in a crack/dihedral at 5.8+/5.9- (a "hard Very Severe" according to my British parner, Lew Brown) pitch initiates the harder climbing. Looking upwards, the route is obvious, on steep and nearly crackless rock and is nearing 5.9 in difficulty. This is "R" rated terrain; don't fall.

Descend to the South, watching for old World War I barbed wire entanglements.

Location

This route begins in a wide crack slightly South of the Arete proper, (Left, facing the rock).

Protection

A few fixed pitons. Very runnout in places.

Photos

The difficulty rating has changed over the intervening years, and is now rated as a 5.10-, or a 5.10a. Aug 5, 2013
This is a very nice climb for the most part, but as most infrequently climbed Dolomite routes, loose rock and some rockfall is an ever-present hazard. Not as popular as the nearby "Biggies," but still a worthwhile undertaking.

Be advised that things could have changed over the intervening years, since my ascent was in 1964! May 4, 2011