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Blaze of Glory

5.10d, Sport, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 14 votes
FA: JB, WS 10/1990
Maine > -Clifton Crags > Eagle Bluff > 06. Power Wall

Description

Climb up vertical rock on mostly positive holds. This route is unique due to the absence of the usual Clifton “crystal pinching.” The dike futures offer an array of jugs, side pulls, and a few pockets. The crux comes about mid way up the climb where you need to place a cam in a horizontal and make a move up to a nice side pull/jug.

There is a short (~40ft) 5.7 second pitch which ends at an anchor right at the lip of the cliff.

Location

Looking at the main face, walk along bottom of cliff to the right of Witch Wonder about 60 ft. The bolt line begins above a small low angle slab.

Protection

The route is sport with one very notable exception. You'll need a cam (BD size 0.75) to protect crux. There is an obvious horizontal crack to plug the cam into. Be sure to place the cam in the left side of the crack where crack is parallel, and not in the slightly flaring middle portion of the crack. There are 2 thick (slightly rusty) rap anchors at the top with quicklinks.

Second pitch has 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor or top out at the top of the bluff.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Reed cruising up this awesome pitch
[Hide Photo] Reed cruising up this awesome pitch
Most of the route. Anchors are behind the top at a lower angle section.
[Hide Photo] Most of the route. Anchors are behind the top at a lower angle section.
Hanging out
[Hide Photo] Hanging out
Mid-route
[Hide Photo] Mid-route
Second pitch of route, 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Lichen and moss covered, 5.7 ish. Fat metolious rap hangers visible in foreground, slightly rusty.
[Hide Photo] Second pitch of route, 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Lichen and moss covered, 5.7 ish. Fat metolious rap hangers visible in foreground, slightly rusty.
Rustomatic 3000 chain on one of the hangers at second pitch anchor. Other rap ring is good, although the hanger spins a bit.
[Hide Photo] Rustomatic 3000 chain on one of the hangers at second pitch anchor. Other rap ring is good, although the hanger spins a bit.
Looking down at first pitch belay from second pitch belay.
[Hide Photo] Looking down at first pitch belay from second pitch belay.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nhan Ngo
Bangor, ME
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] 70m rope is nice if you want to make it all the way to the bottom of the short low slab instead of scrambling off of it. Nov 16, 2023
Nhan Ngo
Bangor, ME
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Second pitch is an extremely exfoliating lichen and moss covered 5.7ish slab. 4 bolts to kind of rusty anchor, about 40 ft. Top of cliff is right there if you want the glorious top out exit to Blaze of Glory.

Looks like nobody has climbed it in a long time. Some of the hangers are spinners. Apr 23, 2024