Climb up vertical rock on mostly positive holds. This route is unique due to the absence of the usual Clifton crystal pinching. The dike futures offer an array of jugs, side pulls, and a few pockets. The crux comes about mid way up the climb where you need to place a cam in a horizontal and make a move up to a nice side pull/jug.
There is a short (~40ft) 5.7 second pitch which ends at an anchor right at the lip of the cliff.
Looking at the main face, walk along bottom of cliff to the right of Witch Wonder about 60 ft. The bolt line begins above a small low angle slab.
The route is sport with one very notable exception. You'll need a cam (BD size 0.75) to protect crux. There is an obvious horizontal crack to plug the cam into. Be sure to place the cam in the left side of the crack where crack is parallel, and not in the slightly flaring middle portion of the crack. There are 2 thick (slightly rusty) rap anchors at the top with quicklinks.
Second pitch has 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor or top out at the top of the bluff.
Bangor, ME
Bangor, ME
Looks like nobody has climbed it in a long time. Some of the hangers are spinners. Apr 23, 2024