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5.10d, Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.2 from 39 votes
FA: Barry Brolley, J.J. in 2004
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Washboard Wall
Warning Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve DetailsDrop down

Description

This long route is the left-most sport route on the Washboard Wall. Locate the high first bolt left of "Spider Crux". You may want to place a piece of pro here. Follow five bolts up moderate terrain to a spacious ledge with a two-bolt anchor. Belay here to reduce rope drag or continue through the overhanging pocketed face past six more bolts to another two-bolt anchor. Use a 60m rope.

I strongly suggest belaying from the intermediate anchors for the top part. The rope drag up top is horrendous when your belayer is at the bottom.

Location

Farthest left on Washboard Wall.

Protection

11 bolts + 60m rope.
If belaying from the bottom, a 60m rope isn't quite long enough from my experience.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbing 1st pitch w/ top-down belay
[Hide Photo] Climbing 1st pitch w/ top-down belay
Rappelling to ground
[Hide Photo] Rappelling to ground
Just prior to rappelling taken by my belayer.
[Hide Photo] Just prior to rappelling taken by my belayer.
Belaying from ledge after 1st pitch.
[Hide Photo] Belaying from ledge after 1st pitch.
View from the bottom.
[Hide Photo] View from the bottom.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Remo
Madison, WI
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] This is a really fun little adventure route. The second pitch is classic Red. Dec 5, 2011
Stephen Montgomery
Philadelphia, PA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Absolute classic. The rope drag is fierce, definitely belay from the ledge. Mar 26, 2016
Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Super fun! Definitely do it in two pitches. There are a few other routes on the headwall than what is listed, so be sure you're following the right bolt line. Sep 16, 2016
Tanner Atkins
Indianapolis, IN
[Hide Comment] As of 6/23/18, a huge ground bee nest is on the ledge between the two pitches. It's been there for over a year, doesn't seem to be going anywhere anytime soon. Jun 24, 2018
Kyle Harding
East Troy, WI
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] This climb should see more attention. Definitely do as two pitches. The headwall leading to the chains on the second pitch has great holds if you know where to find them. It will feel much easier than 5.10d if overhung climbing is your jam. Mar 30, 2019
[Hide Comment] 1st pitch beta video: youtube.com/watch?v=4k_Plmp…

Belaying from the top of the 1st pitch video: youtube.com/watch?v=gLI7JyR…

2nd pitch video coming soon! Jun 4, 2023
Haskie D
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] How the heck does this get 10d AND 4 stars, this is 5.9 at best and not that good. It’s a sad adventure climb Nov 13, 2023
Ryan Dennis
Bloomington, IN
  5.10d PG13
[Hide Comment] The first pitch is super fun 5.9ish climbing, second pitch is cool, but choss and run out draws make it spooky. Had a few rocks fall off when I did it. Worth the adventure though! Dec 9, 2024