Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Barry Brolley, J.J. in 2004
Page Views: 1,516 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ted Bjorklund on May 3, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

This long route is the left-most sport route on the Washboard Wall. Locate the high first bolt left of "Spider Crux". You may want to place a piece of pro here. Follow five bolts up moderate terrain to a spacious ledge with a two-bolt anchor. Belay here to reduce rope drag or continue through the overhanging pocketed face past six more bolts to another two-bolt anchor. Use a 60m rope.

I strongly suggest belaying from the intermediate anchors for the top part. The rope drag up top is horrendous when your belayer is at the bottom.

Location

Farthest left on Washboard Wall.

Protection

11 bolts + 60m rope.
If belaying from the bottom, a 60m rope isn't quite long enough from my experience.

Photos

Remo
Madison, WI
  5.10d
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.10d
This is a really fun little adventure route. The second pitch is classic Red. Dec 5, 2011
Stephen Montgomery
Maryland
  5.10d
Stephen Montgomery   Maryland
  5.10d
Absolute classic. The rope drag is fierce, definitely belay from the ledge. Mar 26, 2016
Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
  5.10d
Mike Wilkinson   Lexington, KY
  5.10d
Super fun! Definitely do it in two pitches. There are a few other routes on the headwall than what is listed, so be sure you're following the right bolt line. Sep 16, 2016
Tanner Atkins
Indianapolis, IN
Tanner Atkins   Indianapolis, IN
As of 6/23/18, a huge ground bee nest is on the ledge between the two pitches. It's been there for over a year, doesn't seem to be going anywhere anytime soon. Jun 24, 2018