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Routes in Washboard Wall

Barenjager S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brushfire Fairytales S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cordillera Rojo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heard It On NPR S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sierra's Travels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spider Crux T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sticks and Stones T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tradmill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Barry Brolley, J.J. in 2004
Page Views: 1,085 total, 14/month
Shared By: Ted Bjorklund on May 3, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

This long route is the left-most sport route on the Washboard Wall. Locate the high first bolt left of "Spider Crux". You may want to place a piece of pro here. Follow five bolts up moderate terrain to a spacious ledge with a two-bolt anchor. Belay here to reduce rope drag or continue through the overhanging pocketed face past six more bolts to another two-bolt anchor. Use a 60m rope.

I strongly suggest belaying from the intermediate anchors for the top part. The rope drag up top is horrendous when your belayer is at the bottom.

Location

Farthest left on Washboard Wall.

Protection

11 bolts + 60m rope.
If belaying from the bottom, a 60m rope isn't quite long enough from my experience.

Photos

Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
  5.10d
Mike Wilkinson   Lexington, KY
  5.10d
Super fun! Definitely do it in two pitches. There are a few other routes on the headwall than what is listed, so be sure you're following the right bolt line. Sep 16, 2016
Stephenmontgomery
Maryland
  5.10d
Stephenmontgomery   Maryland
  5.10d
Absolute classic. The rope drag is fierce, definitely belay from the ledge. Mar 26, 2016
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.10d
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.10d
This is a really fun little adventure route. The second pitch is classic Red. Dec 5, 2011