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Heard It On NPR
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 39
votes
Routes in Washboard Wall
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Bad Dentures TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Barenjager S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Brushfire Fairytales S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cordillera Rojo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Heard It On NPR S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sierra's Travels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spider Crux T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sticks and Stones T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tradmill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.72738, -83.62942 |
| FA: | Barry Brolley, J.J. in 2004 |
| Page Views: | 4,182 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Ted Bjorklund on May 3, 2011 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Climbing Area and a Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
This long route is the left-most sport route on the Washboard Wall. Locate the high first bolt left of "Spider Crux". You may want to place a piece of pro here. Follow five bolts up moderate terrain to a spacious ledge with a two-bolt anchor. Belay here to reduce rope drag or continue through the overhanging pocketed face past six more bolts to another two-bolt anchor. Use a 60m rope.
I strongly suggest belaying from the intermediate anchors for the top part. The rope drag up top is horrendous when your belayer is at the bottom.
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